Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How did you manage to fix it? Am currently having the same problem with my rb25de where it's idle hunting between 1500 down to around 6-700 rpm. Have cleaned out the AAC valve, checked for air leaks done most of what I have read on here with no change. Thought it may have had something to do with the fuel filter as there was a little pool of fuel at the top of it, but since replacing it nothing has changed. Can someone please help me out here

Cleaned the aac valve. ..

now the only issue is it sometimes drop to almost below 500 rpm when shifting but so far have not shut off the engine so I'm cool with that!

Prior to this cleaning , sometimes engine would rev to 0 and shut off. [emoji44]

  • 2 years later...

Guys... My car is possesed/idle hunt again. So obviously I knew what to do. Idled great after cleaning. Been years since I last cleaned it...
This time however I didn't fully remove the screw though as I'm afraid I might damaged the rubber oring like I did in the past... Plus it was really really hard to fully remove the screw. Pos oring must've been stuck.

So anyway it started idle hunting less than 2 days later !!! very mild but got worst over time... Now it's basically idle hunting in every traffic stop but it WILL go away after 20 or so seconds...

Any ideas where I should check again? Or is the iac valve tired/broken? Or maybe the solenoid? Or maybe the oring is damaged?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...