Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

just got consult3 today and give a try on my M35.

actually I have HICAS error code on dash that i want to scan. i found Consult3 will not scan HICAS module and i can't add HICAS module to scan list

my consult3 version is v09.21.01.00.00

here are some screenshot on consult3:

1. choose M35 for scan, there is no manufacture date info

post-137368-0-84633000-1443439761_thumb.jpg

2. consult3 will add the modules for scan automatically. there is HICAS module but it will not add to scan list

post-137368-0-73725100-1443439976_thumb.jpg

3. consult3 could recognize 6 modules from my M35 for scan

post-137368-0-38658600-1443440034_thumb.jpg

4. here is the scan result and there is no hicas error

post-137368-0-35160000-1443440050_thumb.jpg

post-137368-0-71558000-1443440068_thumb.jpg

anyone could tell me how to scan hicas error code with consult3? :woot:

Mr Nissan?

Can't say I have ever tried, I hate wobbly wheels with a passion. Ditch it and put a non hicas subframe in is my advice.

nope, just bought fake consult3 from aliexpress and want to scan for hicas error code.... don't want to pay much money to nissan for error code reading... :sweat:

currently i am using aftermarket ECU and i am not sure it is from hicas car or non hicas car. maybe i could switch back stock ECU then scan again?

Edited by YangLIU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...