Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good morning sir,

In order for this great community to assist you in this half arsed attempt at seeking information on something that you are not well rehearsed in then we will require a little bit more information on what you require.

  • Like 1

It's the big round thing under the steering wheel to the right...... You put the pointy thing that came with your car in it and turn and It makes the car manual for you to control.... Amazing stuff really. Technology these days just blows my Mind! BOOM[emoji378][emoji95]

Edited by Lakes101
  • Like 1

I'm thinking Lee has an error code he wants cleared?

Plugged in the consult II 1 error code "Manual mode switch" this will not clear at all

The manual shift worked fine before I pulled the engine and fully stripped and rebuilt it. Left the box in the car and only unplug from the engine, leaving all harness's wires plugs where/next to final place been.

Reason for not pulling box out with engine was space plus subframe was easy to clean off with the CV grease ect covered all over it.

Is this the switchpost-92288-14436852006203_thumb.jpg

Cheers Lee

It's the big round thing under the steering wheel to the right...... You put the pointy thing that came with your car in it and turn and It makes the car manual for you to control.... Amazing stuff really. Technology these days just blows my Mind! BOOM[emoji378][emoji95]

Cheers man you learn something new every day.

Is it you 1st day to school too ?

  • Like 1

I don't know about a manual mode switch. Was your car a converted auto or always a manual? If it was a converted auto there is a bit in the DIY section on manual conversions which tells you which fuses/terminals under the battery you have to short out to allow the engine to assume that the g/box is in neutral so it can start.

A quick search suggests your pic is of the auto g/box ecu

as far as i knew, auto ecus work fine but you need to trick the "park switch" and some other switch into beleive its always in gear.

Like so
DSC05438.jpg
The plug at the top has been looped to complete the inhibitor switch circuit so the car believes it is in Park

I've never worked on an C34 but I'd say under the centre console. It looks like a logic control unit so it'll be looking for the position between the gear selector and then opening the circuit to the steering and stick shift switches and sending that back onto to the tranny control unit. They're often hidden in and around the centre consoles on other cars. I'd say given the simplicity of it's function, if it was all good then dead after install, you've probably accidentally loosened a connector.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...