Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if you know the answer to a question, why ask it sydkid?

Hoy, I though maybe you knew of an ECU that worked with the auto that I hadn't heard off. That's why I asked, I don't know everything you know. :headspin:

Plus I did say sorry, that I was a bit harsh on you, already. But I will appologise again. I am sorry, I meant nothing more than stopping another urban myth from spreading. :ak47:

Plus I keep hearing about aftermarket ecus'; that "work" with autos. But when I chase them down I keep finding stuff like "it revs out a bit more now before it changes", "the change from first to second isn't as smooth" , "it's a bit more jerky" etc etc. To me that means it doesn't work. So I keep looking for the elusive one that truly does work PROPERLY.

:rofl:

Hi guys thanks for all your input i might get a set of cam gears for now and see what it does then the fuel pump. can some one let me know where i could get some cam gears and how much ruffly i'm in melb

what cam gears are you gonna get, just interested as i am chasing the same kinda out put

at the MO mods i have done

auto r33

cat back 3' exhuast

apexi boost controler in car

hks mushroom

GTR size intercooler with 2.5' stainless steel piping

stage 2 clutch

=187rwkw

in next three weeks

3' dump pipe

high flow cat

GTR fuel pump

uni chip

metal pipe replacing the intake plastic pipe

im hoping for a figure between

200-220rwkw

then prob a cam gear any reccomendation?

go sydney kid, something thats not to wild still an everyday driver

Hey jager i wouldn't have a clue what type of cam gears to get i still want it as a daily driver as well as i just thought all the cam gears were the same also jager did u notice much of a difference when you fitted the uni chip?

Cam gears ?????

The inlet aleady has VVT, so you wont want to change the cam gere there. All you are really looking for is a cam gear for the exaust cam, then a few hour on a dyno to adjust it and tune it all in properly.

I'm not sure you will see any geat improvements if the rest of the system is fairly stock, the benifits would be more evident if you had changed cams, turbos and to some extent the ECU. I think you would get more bang for your buck if you were to change to the tomei poncams. (and/or the dump pipe)

robo

stage 2

=187rwkw, i meant all the mods before that on my stock car = 187rwkw

in three weeks time ill have these mods on and ill let ya now how i go, as i said i hope to achieve the 200-220 rwkw area

i know cams don't give you more overall power just more power at different points through the rev range, i was looking for something that gives me a more responsive motor down low

200rwkw is achievable on the standard turbo

but youd be pretty silly not to upgrade the standard turbo because in order to get 200kw out of it, you need to upgrade almost every other support system

IE dump/front pipe, exhaust, fuel pump, ecu + ebc, fmic etc

After upgrading everything to get 200rkw out of the standard turbo, all u need to do it buy a bigger turbo or get standard highflowed and youve got 220-250rwkw no problems.. next restriction being injectors ofcourse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...