Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i have two turbos and without getting in to much detail here i would like to know which turbo you guys think would be a better choice for drag, but as well as driving on the streets. As you all may know i drag race but love to drive on the streets as well. I really looking for 800hp to the wheels as well as being a good street car. My past projects were as big a turbo on a rb25 build wit small head work, using a gt42r. Now im running a rb26 in all skyline 4wd chassis. But im lost to what turbo to use. So i have opped to place the two turbos up agaist eachother to see what you guys would recommend. Hense using practical recommendations based on actual results. I have looked on line and seems like post that im finding is post that are old and favor the hks turbo just based on the time vs. What was avalible. As we all know the hks t51r spl or kai version never had a gtx as a competition.

So in saying that here is the underdog. A gtx35r BB with A twin scroll 1.06 ar rear housing vs a HKS t51t KIA journal bearing.

I personally love the look and size of the hks unit. But i also realize after alot.of reading its old.

Please look at the attcahed photo and tell me what you guys would recommend me going with.

Thanks a million. Planning on ordering a 6 boost manifold soon.

Im confused. ???? Hks is a v band hot side in and outlets

post-37293-14465975553331_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14465975973374_thumb.jpg

Edited by MJTru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460764-is-big-brand-name-turbos-a-must/
Share on other sites

Ok thats a good comparison. Power wise. So the gtx wouldn't work for 800hp. I was guessing that much. Damn. Thats a 100kw difference. I was looking also at the gtw series turbos from Garrett. 3882r is good for about 950 hp

What you guys think about that. In short whats one of.the best responsive turbo for that power level or is my goals to high. ?

I feel a gt42r is way to big for a 2.6 displacement.

Edited by MJTru

Damn. So i should drop my goals to 600hp 450kw. And i would say from your response that anything more would be leaning on the preference of drag racing only. I want a fun car and a good car that would go down the drag stip. Not by no means a drag only car. You guys have me thinking. I would need a twin scroll dual 38mm gate manifold from kyle.

One last qiestion is the 1.06 ar housing a good choice and how would it compare to a smaller one for power.

I guessing the biggger rear housing will have a better top end but less responsive.

I had a pt turbo. From ams

In my old rb25. Worked good.

The gt35r is mine the hks is a friend for a 2jz. I was comparing power levels and turbos. I picked this gtx35r rear housing and all for 1600 usd and couldn't let it pass. So i wouldnt really want to fork out some more cash for a PT turbo. They are hybrids of Garrett turbos. Like hks. And so on. What are you getting at tho mate. Whats your thoughts.

Edited by MJTru

Ok thats a good comparison. Power wise. So the gtx wouldn't work for 800hp. I was guessing that much. Damn. Thats a 100kw difference. I was looking also at the gtw series turbos from Garrett. 3882r is good for about 950 hp

What you guys think about that. In short whats one of.the best responsive turbo for that power level or is my goals to high. ?

I feel a gt42r is way to big for a 2.6 displacement.

power goal is too high if you want anything responsive, but that depends what you feel is responsive

a t51r kai on a 3L doesnt wake up until 5000ish

a gt35 on a 3L (with 0.82 rear) wakes up at 3750ish

i have only had experience with the 3L and those size turbos, obviously you arent going to get going until later still on a 2.6

Thanks mate. On my rb25 wit a gt35 it was about 4500 so your right. Thats was with a stock head does motor combo make a difference. Cause this motor is fully built cams and all valve train as well. No replacement for displacement is what comes to mind. Lol. Rb30 block are like finding gold here. Damn. Insted of spending more money ill go with this gtx35. Will be laggy wit 1.06 ar rear housing.

with the split pulse rear housing it will be about half way between a 0.82 and a 1.06 non split in terms of when it comes on, you can always go to a smaller rear housing later if its no good for you, its a bolt off/on job if they are both split pulse.

I'd just stick the GTX35R on and wind the boost up. 500-600hp at the tyres is plenty for a street car that'll run 10s.

Are you planning on running E85?

I have the fuel setup to run E85. BUT for the moment just 98 ron or some days race gas on the drag strip. Yeah deep down i have to learn to be content 600 should be a fun car as well i cant see it being that laggy. On my r33 gtr all stock i have the same turbo but .83 ar t3 twin scroll 6 boost manifold and i would say its max boost at 4400 but thats a fully stocked car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...