Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Knock Sensor Wiring Stripped -advice Please

malialipali

By malialipali,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

malialipali Enthusiast

malialipali

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I just did the belts on the stagea and low and behold whilst flashing the light about I see some bare wires.

I'm assuming it's the knock sensor , it's a two wire plug between the v under the intake. Can be seen from the front in the opening between the heads. One wire is bare other looks to be cut. (Looks like mice got to it :-/)

Car does not ping.

So my question is. Does the intake have to go in order to get to it and fix the wiring ? If so should I just do the rocker cover gaskets(passenger side weeps only just) and plugs 143xxxkm. Or am I going beyond what's needed to get to the knock sensor.

Car goes beautifully just last weekend did 1000km round trip and got 720km out of a tank (ultimate ) with no hesitation what so ever even snapped the speedo on a overtake.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Edited by malialipali
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Nice and warm Dale, for many hours. Smart little f*krs would just nest it out with rags and grass, anything they can find to make a cosy and protected home.

As soon as the door unlocked they would know to scurry away.

malialipali Enthusiast

malialipali

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

Is the wiring shielded? If not I can repair the plug thats not an issue. If it is shielded then yes I would need the part.

Is there a part # ? Same as the VQ35s? by any chance. Is this the guy I'm looking for https://www.z1motorsports.com/oxygen-and-knock-sensors/z1-motorsports/350z-g35-vq35de-knock-sensor-sub-harness-p-5833.html?osCsid=keol7gu21kictn9cop24pqrhb4

If I cant find anything by end of tomorrow, I'm happy to pay what it cost + express bag postage Scotty.

OK just did a quick google (currently at work so cant dedicate too much time) looks like 50ohm RG58U coax on the positive side. 99% confident I can repair it. So will give it a crack to repair the wire.

If the car ends up off the road for a few days so be it - ive got a spare.

Cheeky little feckers they are...

I was actually joking when I said looks like mice got to it o.O , now I find that this is actually true and common. WTH!

May as well dot the plugs since I'm gonna spend next Saturday over an engine bay.

Anything else I should to preventative wise. Not fussed on $ , I'm driving the car to Adelaide next month and need to make sure its healthy.

Thanks a bunch on the help All .

Edited by malialipali
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

You had better get it apart and see what's broken first, you may need the knock sensor too.

Yes, that loom looks similar, on ours it's wired into the injector harness, but you can simply run that one in addition to replace the chewed out part.

  • Like 1
malialipali Enthusiast

malialipali

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So spent most of the day (38C here today) over the engine bay listening to tunes and drinking beer.

Stripped the intake off, rigged up a hose to my wet and dry vac and vacuumed up sand/ grit, dirt 2 snail shells ??????? (where the hell do they come from) from around the intake before taking it apart.

Cleaned the intake sections with carb cleaner . Got the harness out and assesed. Looked like shit!. stripped it back de-pinned the connector. Soldered in new leads. Coax wire was perfect fit. Soldered the pins and reassembled the connector.

Knock sensor tested at 562K Ohm (well within the range). With the harness it tested at 559K Ohm still in range.

Did the spark plugs at the same time, who ever did the car last should be slapped !!! had Champion Platinums in there with a 14 (NGK4) heat range .... way too hot , guess they whacked in 350 plugs, electrodes were worn to heck too probably 1.4-1.5mm gap. Got some LFR6AIX.

Put it all together and the moment of truth, fired up first go. Went for a test run , Significant improvement on take off, tried stalling it up and lit up the rears ! never happened before.

I think I just thought these cars were good at WOT and sluggish otherwise......... proven wrong now. Very very happy with the improvement.

Thank you all for your help , Esp Scotty for telling me the whole intake needs to come out.

Total cost $123.70 including the plugs (had to buy the coax and I ran out of heatshrink)

Edited by malialipali
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...