Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I just did the belts on the stagea and low and behold whilst flashing the light about I see some bare wires.

I'm assuming it's the knock sensor , it's a two wire plug between the v under the intake. Can be seen from the front in the opening between the heads. One wire is bare other looks to be cut. (Looks like mice got to it :-/)

Car does not ping.

So my question is. Does the intake have to go in order to get to it and fix the wiring ? If so should I just do the rocker cover gaskets(passenger side weeps only just) and plugs 143xxxkm. Or am I going beyond what's needed to get to the knock sensor.

Car goes beautifully just last weekend did 1000km round trip and got 720km out of a tank (ultimate ) with no hesitation what so ever even snapped the speedo on a overtake.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Edited by malialipali

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

Nice and warm Dale, for many hours. Smart little f*krs would just nest it out with rags and grass, anything they can find to make a cosy and protected home.

As soon as the door unlocked they would know to scurry away.

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

Is the wiring shielded? If not I can repair the plug thats not an issue. If it is shielded then yes I would need the part.

Is there a part # ? Same as the VQ35s? by any chance. Is this the guy I'm looking for https://www.z1motorsports.com/oxygen-and-knock-sensors/z1-motorsports/350z-g35-vq35de-knock-sensor-sub-harness-p-5833.html?osCsid=keol7gu21kictn9cop24pqrhb4

If I cant find anything by end of tomorrow, I'm happy to pay what it cost + express bag postage Scotty.

OK just did a quick google (currently at work so cant dedicate too much time) looks like 50ohm RG58U coax on the positive side. 99% confident I can repair it. So will give it a crack to repair the wire.

If the car ends up off the road for a few days so be it - ive got a spare.

Cheeky little feckers they are...

I was actually joking when I said looks like mice got to it o.O , now I find that this is actually true and common. WTH!

May as well dot the plugs since I'm gonna spend next Saturday over an engine bay.

Anything else I should to preventative wise. Not fussed on $ , I'm driving the car to Adelaide next month and need to make sure its healthy.

Thanks a bunch on the help All .

Edited by malialipali

You had better get it apart and see what's broken first, you may need the knock sensor too.

Yes, that loom looks similar, on ours it's wired into the injector harness, but you can simply run that one in addition to replace the chewed out part.

  • Like 1

So spent most of the day (38C here today) over the engine bay listening to tunes and drinking beer.

Stripped the intake off, rigged up a hose to my wet and dry vac and vacuumed up sand/ grit, dirt 2 snail shells ??????? (where the hell do they come from) from around the intake before taking it apart.

Cleaned the intake sections with carb cleaner . Got the harness out and assesed. Looked like shit!. stripped it back de-pinned the connector. Soldered in new leads. Coax wire was perfect fit. Soldered the pins and reassembled the connector.

Knock sensor tested at 562K Ohm (well within the range). With the harness it tested at 559K Ohm still in range.

Did the spark plugs at the same time, who ever did the car last should be slapped !!! had Champion Platinums in there with a 14 (NGK4) heat range .... way too hot , guess they whacked in 350 plugs, electrodes were worn to heck too probably 1.4-1.5mm gap. Got some LFR6AIX.

Put it all together and the moment of truth, fired up first go. Went for a test run , Significant improvement on take off, tried stalling it up and lit up the rears ! never happened before.

I think I just thought these cars were good at WOT and sluggish otherwise......... proven wrong now. Very very happy with the improvement.

Thank you all for your help , Esp Scotty for telling me the whole intake needs to come out.

Total cost $123.70 including the plugs (had to buy the coax and I ran out of heatshrink)

Edited by malialipali
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um.... This is not easy. I will have a fiddle with it, but make no promises. I think, given the explicit resistances vs temperature, and your ECU measured voltages, it should be possible to match them up. I will do that by assuming a 5V supply from ECU to sensor, find out how much current would have to flow to produce that voltage, then use that current as a .... nah f**k. That won't work. The supply voltage is fixed, but there's nothing to say that the ECU regulates the current too. Um... I dunno. I guess there's a voltage divider setup in the ECU. As in, there's another resistance between the ECU's sense terminal and ground. That way, as the sensor resistance changes, that's how they get a floating voltage that varies with the temperature, without having to control the current. Give me a minute or 3.
    • *that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula
    • Alright. Exhaust has been looked at, and booked in 'soon'. I'm not 100% convinced it's going to be as good as possible but I'm going to go with it anyway. If I get a reasonable thing that works for 10 years I mean that's twice as long as I've lived with the current one. I have a more pressing issue. I have fixed my MPVI3 (by buying a new one). Excellently, one can wire in analog 0-5v inputs to the ECU itself. I had wideband already via Serial so I also wired it in via the direct input. The idea being I can use the standalone logging without a laptop and have Wideband data in it. The other wire I thought I'd use oil temp. This is where I've gone crazy. HPTuners requires you to implement a formula so you know how much volts = how much temp. This seems relatively simple to me. However I cannot find the scale for this anywhere on the internet, nor decipher how to figure it out without removing the sensor from the car. All I know is that voltage actually goes up as temperature goes down. I am using the actual gauge, so I can see what the temp is. The signal wire has been branched off into the MPVI3. EXAMPLE: 2.68v = 58C 2.7 = 57C 2.74v = 56C 2.8V = 54C 3.06V = 49C 3.18V = 47C 3.37V = 43C I think the gauge is 50-150C. It may be more. It may be less, because I can't find it for the love of f**k. It appears all the information about the gauges I have has been scoured from the internet, but the sender is VDO 320.021 I believe the resistance chart is this How the f**k do I convert this to a voltage? Once I have a voltage... I then have to perform this transform of said voltage to show it in the scanner: https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm @GTSBoy you're probably my only hope here TEST YOUR MIGHT
    • Here’s the updated and installed muse replica nismo ones … very happy with the outcome. Eventhough I painted my whole rear end due to my rich idle lol. 
    • Hmm. I had a good look (w/o searching, because I'm not logging in) and couldn't see it either. I distinctly recall the thread, not many weeks ago. It must have been removed or perhaps put into the back section. If it was in Off Topic you should at least have been able to search it up. So if I'm not hallucinating, it is fairly decently removed.
×
×
  • Create New...