Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

New to the forum, Owner of a 1995 R33 GTR V Spec.

Having abit of trouble setting up Nismo AFM's and 900cc Delphi Injectors(Only just installed)

Previously had 448.9hp at the wheels with Nismo 600cc injectors and standard AFM's

I think my dramas maybe with the HKS evc-s boost controller (I hate the thing!)

does anyone have any advise or tips to setting up the boost controller correctly, currently gets to 21.8psi and goes crazy.

and or are the 900cc injectors over kill for this set up? I still have the nismo injectors so can put them back in if needed.

Modifications are

3.5" full system turbo back,

Forged built engine - CP Pistons & Spool Rods

Nismo AFM's

Delphi 900cc Injectors

HKS 272 Cams

Ported Head

HKS 1.5mm Head gasket

Garret 2860-5 Turbos

Apexi Power FC With hand controller

Tomei cam gears

Split Fire Coil Packs

ARP Bolts throughout

walbro 460 fuel pump

Tomei 1.5mm Block oil restrictor

any advise would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460992-nismo-afm-problems/
Share on other sites

The PowerFC needs to be setup properly for the AFMs and Injectors too as Grant said otherwise funny shit can happen. Get the tuner to have a fiddle with the controller once fuel/timing is sorted to try and hold a constant desired boost level as each controller is a bit different and can take some time to get it working properly.

Not sure what you mean exactly after 21.8psi it goes crazy. 22psi for that motor/setup is perfectly fine, a graph or any information on what is happening can help. Torque or power curve dropping off? Boost dropping off?

  • 2 weeks later...

The EVC just controls boost

The PFC controls everything else.

So if you have a boost issue, it's the EVC. If it's anything else, that can only bee the way the setup is in the PFC or something else is up the creek like fuel pressure (if it's fine to a certain point of 21.8 and goes wild for example).

All of that though, tuner/workshop can easily diagnose... It's basic 101 checking time if that is the case. Gonna be hard over the internet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...