Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and gals.

I'm a first time skyline owner and first time poster. I've recently purchased a very modified r33gtst. It's had extensive work done on the motor and impossible for me to list all the modifications but I'll try.

Fully forged rb25 only 20000kms old.

Cp pistons

Manley rods

Crack tested block machined and decked

Recon and hiflowed head

Massive garret turbo

Greddy forward facing plenum

Greddy fmic

750cc injectors

550lph fuel pump

3 1/2 " tbe

Microtech lt12s with a maffless tune with just over 300kw at on 18psi.

And that's only what I know about the car.

Now I'm having a couple of issues right after buying it. It blows a lot of smoke on full boost and there is a very strong non fuely almost chemical smell after you give it a bit of a boot. I've spoken to the guys that done a pre sale check on the car and they said that the motor is still brand new and has 160-165 psi on all 6 cold and hot.

Also it's first start of the day it runs very rough for about 5-6mintues then clears it's throat and all is happy again.

I used to own a heavily modified Subaru and know absolute jack poo about Nissans let alone a maffless tune. I have suspicion that something maybe wrong with the car with all the black smoke it passes the strong smell of something on full boost and these horrible cold starts. Despite having spoken to nearly everywhere the car has been worked on in the last 5 years and being assured it's fine by the likes of boost works jaustech southern performance and a few others. I still think something might be wrong. How much smoke is normal for this kind of turbo car? If anybody could shed some light on this or if anybody I'd a maffless tune guru please give me your 2cents. Any help is much aprectiated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461602-newby-help-maffless-tune/
Share on other sites

Could be a few things with the smoke, first what color smoke is it?

If the valve cover breathers are done incorrectly as a lot of people tend to f**k that up for some reason it could cause smoke on boost.

To much oil pressure for the turbo can also cause smoke iirc.

Just to name a few

Fuel smell in oil, black smoke on fill boost - I'd definitely say she's running rich. Also cold starts may be terrible because it's running excessively rich when the temps are down to keep the engine running. First thing I'd recommend is to get the tune looked over by a tuner who specialises in microtech ecu's.

Well thank kcuf it's nothing major.

Thanks for the input guys. Will have to get it retuned shortly. It was tuned at the end of august by one of the most reputable tuners in Adelaide.

I'll take it to Sean at boost works.ive heard that man can do wonderful things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...