Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Pressure Sensor Install

Rufus007
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i have installed the adapter plate and pressure sensor. Haven't installed the gauge inside the cabin yet - but I did hook it up temporarily to check oil pressure. Minimum spec is 14psi @ idle, and 43psi @ 2000rpm. Mine read 20psi @ idle and 55psi @ 2000rpm so all good :thumbsup:

Hmmm can't find how to post a pic now....weird because I did in the first post?

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

No probs, it took some effort to find the right parts (and a good price) so this could save others some time.

The sandwich adapter:

http://www.shadowmotor.com.tw/en/product/Honda-R18A-K24A/SW40020.htmlthese guys referred me to:

http://shiftperformance.com.au/to purchase from. Its not listed on shiftperformance website so will need to email them. $64 delivered

This was the difficult part to find as most sandwich adapters are to large for our stock oil filters.

Koso mini 3 oil pressure:

http://japan.webike.net/products/21345818.html

All parts included. About $130 delivered. Most other places advertise this around the $260 mark. Also has adjustable low pressure warning.

The stock oil pressure switch for VQ35hr/VQ37vhr apparently only activates at around 5psi - far to low and has probably already caused damage by this stage.

All up pretty cheap insurance to monitor engine health

Edited by Rufus007
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For me its just double insurance against any internal gasket failure..Oil pressure is critical for any engine. Even my dirty ol VE Holden V6 had a proper oil pressure sensor from factory which anyone can read from an OBDII device.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/99607-zed-owners-must-read-p0011-p0021-caused-by-oil-gallery-gaskets/

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/92590-hr-potential-oil-pressure-problem/page__st__40

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes that's right it's supposed to supplement the factory one. Could probably install the new sensor in place of the switch but I'm not sure how the computer would respond.

The 350z and 370z have guages from factory but the v35 and v37 missed out on this

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Yes that's right it's supposed to supplement the factory one. Could probably install the new sensor in place of the switch but I'm not sure how the computer would respond.

That's easy to answer. It's just a switch, not a variable output sensor. The computer won't respond any differently.

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Do you think replacing the switch with a sensor and running the gauge from there would be a better option. Is there any downside to this method or is it just better all round by not having to use a sandwich plate?

Edited by Rufus007
The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ah, so you're not putting in an adjustable switch in that sandwich plate, it's an actual variable sensor for a gauge? Sorry, I didn't take a look at the photo until now. Please ignore EVERYTHING I've said earlier.

In that case, you can't replace the stock one with that. A switch has two functions - on and off. Your sensor, on the other hand, actually gives you a reading of the pressure.

Stick to your original plan with the sandwich plate then. Regardless, oil pressure is oil pressure so wherever you tap into the system, you will have the same pressure readings. In my Nissan Maxima, I had the pressure switch and pressure sensor both working off the same point on the engine block using a VDO brass t-piece adaptor just because I had the clearance and it was convenient. I haven't taken a good look at the VQ block to see where the pressure switch is to determine the best course of action.

The smartest thing you did though was going electric instead of mechanical. That nylon line can fail and if it doesn't spew forth oil in your car's interior, you will definitely lose oil either way. Not good when you're away from home.

Edited by The Max
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All good Max, not a problem at all. Yes I put in a sensor opposed to a switch so I could get a digital readout on engine 'health' for the lack of a better word. I only asked a few questions to find out what the frig you were talking about lol.

Merry NisMas all

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

I'm glad you did because I'm clearly a spastic. Sorry dude. That'll teach me not to look at things in absolute detail!

I read about the oil issues when I was looking into buying mine. I figure at 39,000km, I don't have much to worry about right now but at some point, I plan to put a sexy little Autometer Cobalt series unit in - either in the cup holder of the centre console or hidden under the ashtray panel, just exposing the display itself rather than the whole 2-1/16" dial. In which case, that adapter you've shown is a wise choice. The only thing that concerns me a little is whether or not you would need to keep a spare o-ring about, just in case if you end up unscrewing the adapter as you unscrew the filter during an oil change.

What are your thoughts on this, just from your observations so far?

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All good man we are all on the same team here.

The koso mini guage fits into the ashtray well and I'll be able to close it flush when I eventually get around to a permanent install.

I prefer dial type (still digital tho) guages as they don't jump around as much as digital numbers, but hidden neatly in the ashtray is perfect.

I doubt an extra o ring is needed - I torqued the adapter down to 35Nm. Its a good solid oring also. Mishimoto specs their adapter at 47Nm. Oil filters are approx 10Nm. So far no leaks at all and I did use tape on the sensor thread also.

I imported with 47000km so not expecting probs anytime soon, I'm just a bit proactive like that. Its a small percentage of cars that problem happens to, and I bet good maintenance will help. I also think not flogging cold engines and sending oil pressures sky high would be a good idea.

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Heh. Remote start to get it to 900RPM before driving off is a good start for me. By that stage, we're warm enough.

Good move with the teflon tape too. I use teflon paste but same deal really.

Post pics when it's all done and in action. This is a mighty fine idea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...