Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Window Relay Fix

wsntm3

By wsntm3,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

wsntm3 Contributor

wsntm3

Posted
Posted

My drivers side window decided that it didn't want to work anymore, due to the window relay. After paying for another one my Dad had a go at fixing my original one, with success. It turned out to be a dry solder joint, shown in one of the pics. Hopefully these pics will help anyone else with similar problems.

Door card will need to be removed to access the relay and soldiering skills will be needed.

Tools required:

Soldering iron

Solder

Solder Wick( removes old solder when heat is applied)

Couple of flat screw drivers or butter knifes to open relay casing.

This is the relays location behind the door card.

post-59380-0-76089000-1450577945_thumb.jpg

This is the relay.

With the plug end removed.

post-59380-0-55821100-1450575973_thumb.jpg

The offending circuit board from inside top view.

post-59380-0-74687000-1450576025_thumb.jpg

The underside of board, and I've high lighted the offending solder.

post-59380-0-13214400-1450576764_thumb.jpg

The dry joint can be seen better in this close up.

post-59380-0-67592500-1450576840_thumb.jpg

This is what's needed to do the repair.

post-59380-0-91134700-1450576925_thumb.jpg

First use the solder wick to remove the old solder from the join. This will allow the new solder to fuse better.

post-59380-0-26270800-1450577036_thumb.jpg

Once done, you can then re-solder the join.

post-59380-0-01377000-1450577108_thumb.jpg

Once cooled, slip the board back into the cover. The board locates in the grooves in the cover.

post-59380-0-50536000-1450577211_thumb.jpg

Once re-assembled return to the car and plug it in and test to see if problem solved.

I hope this has been helpful.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461756-r32-window-relay-fix/
Share on other sites
R32Pal Collaborator

R32Pal

Posted
Posted

Could i be having the same issue?

My drivers window switch works! Although the passanger window switch doesnt from my side (passanger window works on passangers side)

Also an R32 :) thanks!

wsntm3 Contributor

wsntm3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Could i be having the same issue?

My drivers window switch works! Although the passanger window switch doesnt from my side (passanger window works on passangers side)

Also an R32 :) thanks!

I've had this issue also. I ended up replacing the drivers side switch panel to fix mine. If you can, try and borrow another switch panel from someone and test it to see if it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' R34 GTT Series 2

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
×
×
  • Create New...