Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in Adelaide and regarding MR and DR 30 parts I have some nice and difficult bits to get that I am now willing to sell.

DR30 front struts x2, king springs, with working stiff shocks and clean good conditioned discs and calipers. Also with Noltech bushing through the control arms, noltech redius rod bushes, and noltech swaybar link bushes (Unused)

Frontal and Rear Whiteline Swaybars + link bushes

Rear DR30 crossmember including rear KYB struts and kingsprings and DR30 calipers and discs. Also rear MR30 crossmember including drums, wishbones and cables.

Redtop RB20 turbo, running, includes one R32 engine mount (a second mount is required for r30 conversion), EFI connections in full including computer,

2 good condition MR30 gearboxes, at least 1 good condition MR30 diff, (analyse whatever if you want) 2 MR30 shells containing various spares including tachometers and interiors (shells have bad paint).

Spare R30 purplish silver paint and primer, lol

7 mr30 TI rims some with good tires. (15inch, good offset for R30's)

4 14inch alloys, protrusive offset, good tires!

spare good condition TI quater panels, doors, tail lights, headlights, everything.

reasonable with prices but if the offers i am getting arent sufficient then i will sell the bulk of everything for a singular price instead. I will not post. Send me a PM if you're interested in anything from here.

Edited by Blue Dynamite
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 months later...

Surprised this hasn't already come up. But I am the Owner of KDS parts in Seaford VIC. I am a Nissan Parts reseller. Specialty is R31 and HR31, but can source any new part at great prices as long as it's available. Only new stuff though. I also have limited stock of GTS 1 and 2 parts and body kits. Aftermarket Remans of some HR31 stuff as well. Only quality on the reman stuff, so it's not as cheap as some. Most stuff that used to be available through Nispares is now available though me, and I keep most of it in stock. (Reman stuff that is).

email [email protected] for any prices. Glad to offer trade or better to SAU members.

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

Spotted this ebay seller that stocks a decent range of old skyline/datsun badges... Not sure if its genuine NOS as some of the stuff is pretty cheap.

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/ukstar76__W0QQ...p;submit=Search

Edited by D-limo
  • 6 months later...

dr30 5 speed gearbox. good condition $400

fj20 starter motor $80

r30 house rear bar.. suits wide body kit with over fenders but has been modified to fit standard body lines $150

dr30 steering coloum complete with ignition barrel. keys and indicator switches. $100

all chrome around dr30 windows $50

dr30 rear power window motors $ 50 each

dr30 rear windows$50 each

im in adelaide.. send me a pm if u want pics or more details

cheers

  • 1 month later...
i know how hard it is to find something you need so just throught i'd put up the names of places that have helped with the harder to find bits for the older cars.

www.jaustech.com.au (pricee but at least they have it)

www.japparts.com.au (QLD)

www.option1garage.com.au (QLD)

www.importbitz.com.au

www.slidewizeimports.com can import things for you from japan(big thumbs up)

SSS Automotive at Girraween 02 9896 6111

Just Jap at Kirrawee (they race a DR30)

Nispares/Datparts (0397298497)

Z-16 autoparts - primarily Z-car spares, but might have parts for other classics

- Harvey Rd, Kings Park, NSW, 2148 - (02) 9831 4734

Rare spares - lots of popular classic restoration parts

- www.rarespares.net.au (online ordering)

- 388 Gilbert Road, Preston VIC 3072 - (02)9471 0733

- 213 Parramatta Road, North Strathfield NSW 2140 - (02)9746 1188

Castlemaine Rod Shop - Fabrication of mounts, conversion kits etc.

- www.rodshop.com.au (ordering through email, do COD)

- Pyrenees Highway, Chewton, VIC, 3451 - (03) 5472 2853

Mad Dat Motorsports - some conversion stuff

- www.maddat.com.au (ordering through email)

- Unit 1 / 57 Boothby Street, Panorama S.A. 5041 - (08) 8374 4611

Datsport

1 Donegal Road Lonsdale, Adelaide SA

81862100

www.Datsport.com

"MARINE CABLES" (will make brand new handbrake cables for less than 2nd hand ones)

07 55376099

IF YOU GET NO LUCK HERE THEN TRY THE JAPAN SECTION FOR THE LIST OF SITES IN JAPAN?

its a small list but they have been able to help me so if you know of places that may be able to help someone maybe leave some info.

:merli:

I would like to add up one more to the list http://www.theautopartsshop.com/auto/nissan.html they are cheap as well and have most of the parts of mostly all the companies plus they offer free 2 year warranty :-)

  • 1 month later...
dr30 5 speed gearbox. good condition $400

fj20 starter motor $80

r30 house rear bar.. suits wide body kit with over fenders but has been modified to fit standard body lines $150

dr30 steering coloum complete with ignition barrel. keys and indicator switches. $100

all chrome around dr30 windows $50

dr30 rear power window motors $ 50 each

dr30 rear windows$50 each

im in adelaide.. send me a pm if u want pics or more details

cheers

Would the fj20 starter motor fit a nissan gazelle ?. If so i will buy. Send me a Email please. [email protected]. Thanks
  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...

Hi all! Brand new to SAU here. Will have a better look around the forums over the weekend when I have time.

At present, though, I'm wondering if anyone can help me with an L24E Starter motor.

Have an R30 that is, at present, not going - and this makes me sad.

  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi folks, i am new to the forum and i am chasing a fuel filler for a C210, if anybody is willing to part with one can you let me know of if you know of some one wrecking a C210.

many thanks

A local shop managed to fit a 300zx fuel filter in mine. 2000k in no probs.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...