Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Im new to these forums, and as the R31 Skyline Club site is down for the time being (changing server it would seem) I was hoping some people on here will help me with some issues im currently having with regards to an upcoming regular servce.

1. Basically its ran up 193,000 kms on the clock and im getting woried about the timing belt. Had a look at it the other day and u can see light brown marks on the non-notch side of it, does this indicate wear?

2. Plugs. It needs em bad. NGK seems to be the general consensess, but what about the irdium ones....worth the extra money? (how much "extra" by the way havent been to autobarn yet)

3. The motor (RB30e stock running 20 degrees) is running like, well, not good under roughly 2 grand but then at 2000 grand u feel it really thump and it takes off (mainly first gear and second (manual), never do 2000rpm in third) its feels like its almost fuel related....filter maybe? Dont want to randomly replace parts i dont have to (uni student). Again it has never done this until a few days ago...also i know my air regulator is stuffed so would that cause that kind of problem?

If i even get one of these questions answered that would be bloody fantastic

Thanks in advance Luke.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46221-techicnal-rb30e-running-issues/
Share on other sites

yea our r31 is around the 200,000km mark.

Belts -

The timing belt should be changed every 100,000kms but it will most likely last past 100,000 for a while depending on when you replaced the older one, but its best to replace it.

Im getting all the belts on mine changed, the power steering one is starting to fray and i think the timing belt isnt much better.

plugs - I would just buy the copper ones, they do just as good and they cost alot less but i think you get more kms out of the iridiums.

It would be a good idea to change the petrol filter. Its probably blocked up with shit, it will make a fair difference after you change from a bad filter to a new one.

Other things while your at it -

Perhaps change the air filter and clean the throttle body.

An oil + filter change if it needs one - some good quality mineral oil would be fine and its not to expensive.

Thats most of the stuff thats been done on my r31, but i still need to change all the radiator and heater hoses as they are getting crunchy and the radiator needs flushing. Plus i think the thermostat has stuck closed as the temp needle gets to high very often.

3. The motor (RB30e stock running 20 degrees) is running like, well, not good under roughly 2 grand but then at 2000 grand u feel it really thump and it takes off (mainly first gear and second (manual), never do 2000rpm in third) its feels like its almost fuel related....filter maybe? Dont want to randomly replace parts i dont have to (uni student). Again it has never done this until a few days ago...also i know my air regulator is stuffed so would that cause that kind of problem?

You might wanna check your air flow meter if you are having problems under 2000 rpm. Just a thought. This is what you might mean by air regulator. AFM's are not all that cheap, but can cause a heap of agro if they are on the blink. I agree with SKY-031, 20 degress is a bit on the high side if you are running standard unleaded. If you want to run PULP, 20 degrees is OK.

yeah ive been meaning to check the timing again for a while now, and after hearing it pinging 2day pulling up a steep hill, second and low rpms, so i took it home and checked it. To my suprise the timing was not at 20, but more like 13-14 degrees :) doh what else causes pinging? Or makes a softish *clink* *clink* *clink* sound under those driving conditions? Wasnt hot 2day either 10-12 degrees ambient temp...

Cazz....yeah I have already done extensive testing on the AFM, when i say air regulator i actaully mean air regulator :) its stuffed (sorry should have said that it was ok ::). Thanks for ur help anyway always appreciated :).

Thanks everyone for advice/help will 'report' back from service 2moro....hopefully my mechanic mate can shed more light on my issues

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Does any of you guys have instagram pages for your builds? Keen to see some Aussie builds. I still can't figure out how to post photos in here.
×
×
  • Create New...