Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"All imported vehicles with a magenta (purple) compliance plate whether from the ACT or another jurisdiction must be inspected at the Dickson Motor Vehicle Registry."

That is from the website. I think all Skylines and Silvia's have a purple plate - so no matter where you buy it, to transfer rego to your name in the ACT you would have to go to Dickson. I think we all agree here.

So the consensus is:

FMIC should be fine, even with hole cut through battery tray.

Pod should also be fine if held properly.

Boost controller will need to be hidden.

Any issues with the MCA coilovers? They aren't too low or something?

And one other point: I was thinking of having the car checked by some mechanic that can report to me. I inquired with Stateroads and they charge 290 for a report - its 6 pages and basically is a tick for satisfactory or not satisfactory for a list of things. Mainly it will point out a more major fault. Is it worth going with them or is there a better/cheaper alternative? I would like a check for the peace of mind.

I had paid for stateroads to do an inspection for me. Well worth the penny. It's a full report from paint correction to to rust to mechanical issues. I would use thees guys whenever I buy a car over $10,000+. Ease of mind and you know what you're paying for instead of calling their mechanic for a bias opinion. GL.\

I still have the report for my car - If you'd like to check it out. Give me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send it over.

Edited by RosieR34

Have you considered asking the seller to drive the car to the Dickson pits for an inspection to see if it will pass before purchasing? I know it will be a hassle but for Sydney sellers might be worthwhile giving it a go so that you purchase knowing for sure. Might be an idea to look into an adm s15 instead as pretty much most things will be parted out that was different probably with the exception of rear window wiper and the digital climate control unit. Just a thought to save you more hassle than required.

Yeah I might ask him if he has plans to come down. Probably won't happen though.

If the car is mechanically good and history is clean then I would be willing to cop a bit of hassle. But really I am wondering why Dickson would make life so hard? It's not heavily modded.

Is hiding the boost controller really hard? And if the FMIC fails then I have to go stock? All else shouldn't be an issue I feel.

And I know the pains of not going back within their 28 days (or whatever the fk it's been reduced to now, allegedly) and having them discover things they glazed over the first time - blindingly obvious and ridiculously irrelevant things - resulting in another failure even though I fixed the issues from the first one. Kents.

Wondering what people's thoughts are on amount of boost. Stock S15 turbo (T28 ball bearing I think) running around 12-15 psi of boost. Would you get concerned about the longevity of the turbo - or is it pretty reliable? What sort of numbers do you all run (on Skylines)?

Also has anyone got a power brace fitted?

S15 stock turbos will happily run 16-17 psi but can't hold that till redline. They usually drop to around 14-15 psi in the top end. This is when your ecu is tuned otherwise 12 psi max.

In skylines most guys with aftermarket turbos run 18-20 psi. Some push them a bit more.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...