Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I'm just about to put some new turbos on the gtr and I'm deciding which tuning shop near Tokyo to get my tune done at? I'll have all the mods done already and I've got a power FC in it so it would be tune only.

So far at the top of my list is Top Secret, then Mine's, and there are a few other shops near me like Bee-R etc. I could go to.

My question is if you had the chance to get your rb26 powered gtr tuned in Japan which shop would you pick? And why?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463513-where-to-tune-my-gtr-in-tokyo/
Share on other sites

Haha I swear I'm not trying to show off, I just want to pick the best possible tuner here in Japan while I have the opportunity.

It seems mine's is more focussed on total car balance, and top secret will go as crazy as you want to go with your car.

having the distinct privilege of owning a "workshop" car, i'd highly recommend checking out Midori Seibi Centre.

They were one of a handful of workshops Nissan approved to "officially" be an R34 GTR workshop, and they also have a 4 hub Dynapak dyno, nice and accurate tool for tuning.

They don't quite have the international presence of Mines, Top Secret etc, but i can vouch for the quality of their work and their continuing development of GTR after-market parts is also a good indicator of where their passion and expertise lies.

I'm not super familiar with the geography, they might not be "Tokyo", but i believe they aren't far out.

My 2 cents.

  • Like 1

having the distinct privilege of owning a "workshop" car, i'd highly recommend checking out Midori Seibi Centre.

They were one of a handful of workshops Nissan approved to "officially" be an R34 GTR workshop, and they also have a 4 hub Dynapak dyno, nice and accurate tool for tuning.

They don't quite have the international presence of Mines, Top Secret etc, but i can vouch for the quality of their work and their continuing development of GTR after-market parts is also a good indicator of where their passion and expertise lies.

I'm not super familiar with the geography, they might not be "Tokyo", but i believe they aren't far out.

My 2 cents.

They are in Yokohama just down the road:

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.midoriseibi.co.jp%2F

Hi Mish,

the one and only previous owner had all the work carried out at Midori; car is an R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur.

You name it, Midori pretty much did it. Full engine overhaul (kept at 2.6), HKS2530's, Midori development suspension (aragosta shocks and eibach prings), Midori brake kit (alcon), rose jointed suspension components, titanium exhaust, etc etc etc, plenty of little things too.

I don't have dyno sheets from the time it was at Midori, but power would have likely been around 350-360awkw's from this setup i would imagine.

Trent @ Chequered Tuning has looked after the tuning ever since, from possibly the first flex-fuel conversion on a GTR to likely the first HKS V-Cam installation being controlled entirely from the existing Link ecu; between Midori and Trent (and big nod to Racepace), the car has been sweet and has been full time E85 for quite a while now (probably about 5 years?)

She's a sweet little engine, which is testament to both Midori's 2.6 build when they did it, and care it's received in Australia since.

Midori has a quite regularly updated blog which is really cool to flick through, lots of interesting stuff (especially if your Japanese is good).

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Mish,

the one and only previous owner had all the work carried out at Midori; car is an R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur.

You name it, Midori pretty much did it. Full engine overhaul (kept at 2.6), HKS2530's, Midori development suspension (aragosta shocks and eibach prings), Midori brake kit (alcon), rose jointed suspension components, titanium exhaust, etc etc etc, plenty of little things too.

I don't have dyno sheets from the time it was at Midori, but power would have likely been around 350-360awkw's from this setup i would imagine.

Trent @ Chequered Tuning has looked after the tuning ever since, from possibly the first flex-fuel conversion on a GTR to likely the first HKS V-Cam installation being controlled entirely from the existing Link ecu; between Midori and Trent (and big nod to Racepace), the car has been sweet and has been full time E85 for quite a while now (probably about 5 years?)

She's a sweet little engine, which is testament to both Midori's 2.6 build when they did it, and care it's received in Australia since.

Midori has a quite regularly updated blog which is really cool to flick through, lots of interesting stuff (especially if your Japanese is good).

nice, it sounds like midori did a great build. I'll check them out and see what they say. i've been told that a lot of shops won't tune a car they didn't build themselves, so i might have trouble getting the big name shops to tune it unfortunately.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...