Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

After 7 years of trouble free motoring my C34 decided to not start yesterday. I noticed a fast tick sound when I turned on the ignition and the motor would crank but she wouldn't fire. After trying a couple of times I noticed the engine light was not on.

After waiting around for 10min I decided to give it a go. I turned the ignition on, the ticking/buzzing came back for a few seconds then the engine light flicked on with the rest of the light and BOOM she started.

I got it home and same thing, a buzzing sound from somewhere in the passenger area, no engine light, no start.

To me it seems like the ECU is not getting power and it may be a relay issue but I am not sure where its located or what in the front passenger area could be causing that noise. its too coincidental for them not too be linked.

If anyone can help me out with some diagrams or location of relays that would be awesome!

Well you are probably on the right track.

It sounds like the starter motor is working OK because you said the engine turned so no need to worry about it, battery etc.

Both the ECU and the ECCS relay (blue I think) that turns the ECU on are in the passenger kick panel so you could start by pulling it off and checking that out. The buzzing sound could be a dead or dying relay but generally they either just stop working or jam on all the time.

But also, do you have a factory and/or aftermarket immobiliser? That is a more likely place to fail. What happens when you turn the key from off to IGN, do you get all the usual lights on the dash?

Take the panel off the LH side panel and have a listen to see if you can hear where the clicking is coming from. Check that the plug is secure in the ecu. The ecu has to come out to get access to some stuff behind it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...