Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

got some major things happening on my 350GT. i was driving along this morning and suddenly 30mins into my drive the engine light, SPIN and VDC off light came on. After stopping the engine and tried firing it up again. YOu can hear the whole engine trying to start but not turning. I tried the same process again and pressed on the accelerator and the car fired up with the same set of lights coming on.

Anyhow i manage to reset this by doing the ECU reset on youtube and manage to drive (and park the car) but on the way to the another undercover carpark the whole car suddenly died slowly and tried starting again and manage to do this by pressing the accelerator. And the 3 lights came on again.

Can't be the battery as it is brand new (over a month old). Could it be the alternator or distributor?

What is worrying me the most is when the car suddenly lost all eletrics while moving in a carpark and this could happen while im driving on the motorway?

i reset the ecu and its out again.

Do you guys have any ideas?

regards,

JT

I am guessing that would be the 'SLIP' light? not SPIN :)

These are symptoms of many possible faults. It could be a crank or cam sensor, or something else, you will need to get the codes read to find out.

haha yes slip light lolz just goes to show i dont pay attention to my car only when it has issues. problem is i reset the ecu so i have to wait for it to happen again before i can take it to the shop.

Hi. One of the two cam angle sensors has failed. To confirm, and to find out which one, this is how you get the code - but then you probably already know because you said you reset the ECU:

  • Turn ignition to ON (dont start engine).
  • Wait 3 seconds
  • Then over the next 5 seconds, push the accelerator all the way to the floor and then release it fully - do this 5 times quickly within these 5 seconds.
  • Then wait a further 7 seconds.
  • Now push the accelerator all the way to the floor again and hold it for 10 seconds until the MIL starts flashing.
  • When you see it start to flash after 10 seconds, release the accelerator straight away
  • The light should then keep blinking - giving you the fault codes. It will flash up 4 codes, pausing between each. It will blink slowly for the first group, then fast for the next 3 groups. 10 flashes in a group = '0'. ie. code 0123 would be 10 flashes, pause, 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes, long pause, repeat...
  • Turn the ignition to OFF when you're done - this will exit the diagnostic mode.

Error codes here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/350z-ecu-codes.html

0011 is the Bank 1 sensor, 0021 is the Bank 2 sensor.

I hope this helped.

Edited by Stuart McK
  • Like 1

but i have reset my ecu so at the moment the car is running ok. Is there a way to go into diagnostic mode again and try to find which one is the problem?

I didnt do the count hehehe so i dont know which one is the problem. so at the moment i am waiting for it to go into limp mode (hopefully not when im on the motorway)

but i have reset my ecu so at the moment the car is running ok. Is there a way to go into diagnostic mode again and try to find which one is the problem?

Not that I'm aware of. I wouldn't have thought that an ECU reset would have resolved it if a sensor has completely faulted, btw. But if it does do into limp mode, keep your revs down and don't drive it hard home. Oh, and the genuine part from a Nissan dealer was $100-150 I seem to recall (I had to do one sorted ~5 years ago).

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

thanks guys.  I was on the market for a new car anyway. so found one and traded the skyline in. :-) just couldn't be bothered finding the fault in the end after 5yrs so it was time to change.

I still miss it though since I see a few of them around now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...