Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok. To start with this engine is in a lc gtr torana. So it's fairly tight in the engine bay.  Pic of engine bay is old setup 25neo

I'm about to get my head back for my 30 25 neo and need some help pointing me in the right direction on a couple of questions at the end of the post.

But first I will give you a full spec list of the setup. 

Specs are

30 block

Crank welded and modified for 25 oil pump

All resized and nitrared so as new.

Spool h beam rods arp bolts

ARP main and head studs. 

87mm Forged arias pistons -10.4cc

Zero deck height

Jim berry modified clutch 4200 pound clamp

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump. 

2 x 1mm oil restrictors

1.3mm mls head gasket

Head has exturnal vct mod -3 lines. Ported inlet and exhaust performance valve springs and type b pon cams. Head cc is decked to 49cc

Giving me a 8.5 to 1 comp

Freddie intake manifold match ported 

1000cc bosch injectors e85 compatible

Walbro 460 intank pump. 

Custom made steam pipe exhaust manifold hi mount

Gtx3582r with 45mm exturnal gate off exhaust housing. 

Running 22 to 24psi for pump 98

3 inch from turbo back exhaust

100 cel cat straight through muffler. 

The only thing that will be holding it back is I only have a r34gtt Nistune ecu with hpx1 afm at the moment. 

I have read several post on here about cam timing and still haven't heard of anyone getting the best setup or no one is willing to let on.

I'm also not sure if I should dump my spitfire coil packs in favor of ls9 truck ones.

Also not sure if I should dump the factory cas for a rossi cas trigger. 

20150826_173956-1.jpg

20160720_190941.jpg

2016-07-30 09.24.15.png

Screenshot_2016-07-30-09-25-45-1.png

20150826_173956-1.jpg

20160720_190941.jpg

2016-07-30 09.24.15.png

Screenshot_2016-07-30-09-25-45-1.png

Edited by lcxu105
Missed some info
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466048-30-25-neo-with-gtx3582r/
Share on other sites

 No-one got back to me with the "secrets" of cam timing but my local shop suggested better valve springs but you have addressed that... and I fitted an adjustable cam gear to the exhaust to be tuned on the dyno. What sized rear end do you have on your GT3582R?

The only downside I see to your build is the relatively low CR at 8.5:1 but you may be able to overcome that with heaps of boost. Will not be so crisp off boost.

No need to change the splitfires ( I used brand new OEM gapped to 0.8mm) - if you find they are not keeping up you can change them later. The Nistune may not hold you back so long as you have an AFM that can cope. When and if you change to a more sophisticated ECU you will probably need to replace your CAS with some other kind of trigger.

Depending on the spec of your turbo I am picking you should make at least 400KW

Its a .82 rear on the gtx3582r.  If I can feed more boost into it I will. 

Being that the engine is in a lc gtr torana that is only 1000 kgs I'm not to worried about it off boost. 

Due to the fact that the 30 bottom end will produce more torque than the 25 neo it should be fine. 

5 hours ago, lcxu105 said:

Thanks for that. 

Will get some picks when I get the head back hopefully by the end of the week.

Always wanted an LJ. Strangely I am more a 6 cylinder guy than V8s.  I was really trying to get my brother to buy one but I ended up getting him an SS Chevelle out of the US. Mega cruiser but LJ would have been a more entertaining drive

Nice colour! I like the slr style front spoiler too! I had a LJ close to that colour a few years ago, I miss that car 579f36af5cf99_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit
Id like to see how the 25/30 goes in the torana, I've only been in them with 186's and 202.

Like a cut snake on water. 

With the 25 neo same top end less porting and 18psi boost 422rwhp cold do 0-100 in less than 4.2 seconds.  And standing 1/4 in 10.9.

Had it up over 235ks on Lakeside raceway. 

I'm looking to make an extra 100hp at the wheels and a shit load more torque. 

I hope that the 20g is worth it. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...