Jump to content
SAU Community

Install of Stereo deck + Subs + Amp in R33 GTST

Z32 Airlines

By Z32 Airlines,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

NuGGeT Proficient

NuGGeT

Posted
Posted

do a search for the wiring colours and such for the head unit, then there also some threads around bout taking the dash off. follow them

search is your friend :D

also amp is easy to install, just mounting it is prob gonna take most of ya time. as i said before search sau has everything u need to know

Revhead Grand Master

Revhead

Posted
Posted

If the box is big enough, just bolt the amp to the side of the box, and then all you have to do is find somewhere to securely mount the sub box without compromising boot space too much. Don't forget that the amp needs decent ventilation too, sounds simple but I've seen a few where they've just whacked it in a corner under a cover...

When I had my stereo in, I just ran the RCAs (I had two) up the trans tunnel, as far away from other wiring as I could to reduce noise, then it went under the back seat and through one of the factory holes in behind the seat back. For my own peace of mind I used a bit of rubber to pad the wiring, so it wouldn't rub through on the metal, but it'd probably be OK. Power and earth are really easy in the R33s as the battery is in the boot. I just ran 2 guage wiring to my sub amp, and 4 guage stuff to my splits amp, straight from the battery (but fused, of course!). The wiring can be passed through some holes in the battery mount and under the carpet to keep things tidy, but for crying out loud, make sure you insulate the wires properly, as this is the last place you'd want anything to short!!! Earths I just ran to one of the bolts holding the boot lock mechanism in, again, this went under the carpet.

Umm that's all I can think of at the moment. If you run up against any specific problems, post back here.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...