Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Hoping for some advice as I have lost hope after about 30mins lol

So the issue developed about 2 weeks ago when I moved it to wash.

Moving in / out the driveway and sitting idle I could hear a very low constant beep noise, at first I thought it was the turbo timer but nope it's def not that.

I have stuck my head all through out the dash around the drivers side, the best location is above the left knee around the steering column but I still can't locate it. It's a very low pitched beep and if you were sitting in the passenger seat you probably wouldn't hear it.

It also was not present prior to hearing it.

Any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466229-low-faint-beeping-noise-r33-s2/
Share on other sites

Check for a small speaker looking unit behind the drivers side door card

other thought was an aftermarket alarm with a dead/dying roll of watch batteries

perhaps even a hidden turbo timer behind the dash

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Depending on the sound it could be some sort of earthing issue. I know that one of my old cars made a low pitch whine when it was started. It varied with the RPM of the engine. 

One thing I can suggest is to double check your terminals on the battery (assuming you don't have two). Make sure they are super clean and tight. If your car has a separate earthing point to the chassis (normally located either at the front of the car or near the strut towers), check the earth. If this is in poor shape you can introduce all sorts of odd harmonics.

The other sound that it could be is a dying capacitor. They make a funny squealing sound when they are dying. Do you have any electronics (PCBs) mounted in the area that could be the source? 

^^^ That said if you are absolutely sure this is a beep and not some spurious noise, you need to look for electronic boards. You will most likely be hearing a piezo speaker. These are generally smaller than a 5 cent piece and are mounted within electronics, so are hard to hear. 

Most smart (read: well designed) items will start to beep if the board detects a lack of power. 

Quote

dead/dying roll of watch batteries

This is most likely the reason, most of the circuit will be receiving 12V (or thereabouts) from the car and will operate fine, but the backup battery (normally a lithium watch or button battery) may run on a different area of the board with it's own power sense circuit. When the power drops the circuit will move from it's normal mode of operation, to a circuit that include the speaker, thereby creating the beep. 

I'm not familiar with enough of the R33 electronics or any of the aftermarket items to know what it could be, but you may find it's as silly as the clock or radio in the car.

I'd suggest (if it bothers you enough) to pull off any trim in the area and try to isolate the sound. It could be coming from deep within your dash.

Yes that's the stumping part.

Only when the car is on it beeps.

It's comes from around the steering column.

I'm going to spend some more time on it as I noticed the greddy control boxes are shoved around in there ( I assume control boxes for boost and oil temp gauge ) I seem to have a sneaky suspicion it may be either of them cause that's the only items in the vicinity.

Also ripped out the turbo timer and still doing it.


  • 3 months later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Any solution to this ? I have similar situation in my skyline V35, 3 beeps at ~1 every 2 sec interval even without keys inserted, lower than the sound it makes when I leave the keys in with door open. Does not make the beep sound when I have car running though. 

Edited by kool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...