Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Hoping for some advice as I have lost hope after about 30mins lol

So the issue developed about 2 weeks ago when I moved it to wash.

Moving in / out the driveway and sitting idle I could hear a very low constant beep noise, at first I thought it was the turbo timer but nope it's def not that.

I have stuck my head all through out the dash around the drivers side, the best location is above the left knee around the steering column but I still can't locate it. It's a very low pitched beep and if you were sitting in the passenger seat you probably wouldn't hear it.

It also was not present prior to hearing it.

Any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466229-low-faint-beeping-noise-r33-s2/
Share on other sites

Check for a small speaker looking unit behind the drivers side door card

other thought was an aftermarket alarm with a dead/dying roll of watch batteries

perhaps even a hidden turbo timer behind the dash

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Depending on the sound it could be some sort of earthing issue. I know that one of my old cars made a low pitch whine when it was started. It varied with the RPM of the engine. 

One thing I can suggest is to double check your terminals on the battery (assuming you don't have two). Make sure they are super clean and tight. If your car has a separate earthing point to the chassis (normally located either at the front of the car or near the strut towers), check the earth. If this is in poor shape you can introduce all sorts of odd harmonics.

The other sound that it could be is a dying capacitor. They make a funny squealing sound when they are dying. Do you have any electronics (PCBs) mounted in the area that could be the source? 

^^^ That said if you are absolutely sure this is a beep and not some spurious noise, you need to look for electronic boards. You will most likely be hearing a piezo speaker. These are generally smaller than a 5 cent piece and are mounted within electronics, so are hard to hear. 

Most smart (read: well designed) items will start to beep if the board detects a lack of power. 

Quote

dead/dying roll of watch batteries

This is most likely the reason, most of the circuit will be receiving 12V (or thereabouts) from the car and will operate fine, but the backup battery (normally a lithium watch or button battery) may run on a different area of the board with it's own power sense circuit. When the power drops the circuit will move from it's normal mode of operation, to a circuit that include the speaker, thereby creating the beep. 

I'm not familiar with enough of the R33 electronics or any of the aftermarket items to know what it could be, but you may find it's as silly as the clock or radio in the car.

I'd suggest (if it bothers you enough) to pull off any trim in the area and try to isolate the sound. It could be coming from deep within your dash.

Yes that's the stumping part.

Only when the car is on it beeps.

It's comes from around the steering column.

I'm going to spend some more time on it as I noticed the greddy control boxes are shoved around in there ( I assume control boxes for boost and oil temp gauge ) I seem to have a sneaky suspicion it may be either of them cause that's the only items in the vicinity.

Also ripped out the turbo timer and still doing it.


  • 3 months later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Any solution to this ? I have similar situation in my skyline V35, 3 beeps at ~1 every 2 sec interval even without keys inserted, lower than the sound it makes when I leave the keys in with door open. Does not make the beep sound when I have car running though. 

Edited by kool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...