Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 CRANKS, CLUNKS AND STOPS WHILE STARTING

crd1392

By crd1392,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

crd1392 Explorer

crd1392

Posted
Posted

Help! I had my track car sitting around for a while without being started very often now whenever i start it, it cranks for abit and then suddenly makes a clunking noise and nothing happens until i turn the ignition off and back on. I've replaced the battery, starter motor and the alternator and still has the same issue. I've noticed if you don't turn the key to the fully on position just turn it enough until it cranks it eventually starts. Any help would be great. cheers

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Poor earth? Bad connection somewhere. Generally resistance increases with heat so this would explain why it is worse when its hot

Long shot but worth a look

I was going to say maybe a dodgy ignition barrel but it sounds to inconsistent for that

Ill have a look at my wiring diagram when i get near a computer to see what it could be

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Yep, as above. Had a similar issue a while back. Check the +ve on the starter, then check the earths from the motor to the chassis and starter to the motor. Grease and crap may get in between the contacts so give them a sand and tighten them back up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • WMDC35
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...