Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys so i have a highly modified rb26  with flex flew e85 and e93 octane fuel setup. using dynamic injectors. i start the car every week i don't drive it so i can keep up.

 how ever i had e85  in take low fuel,  i wormed it up  and i came to pull out the car  to load it on trailer.  and i drove around the  to get it on trailer i kind of floor it and died i figured out of fuel. no problem i got to the shop and put 93 octane( car is flex fuel tuned.) so i try to start it won't start  i have one pump in tank i check it is working and i have 2 bosch external and they are working. the fuel gauge  in front of the fuel rail  show pressures 60psi.  fuel rail got fuel. 

I pulled out the coil and there is no spark i pulled out the spark plug connected to coil tap on ground and no spark. 

also i looked in cylinder from  the plug whole and the injector is not spraying fuel.... :down:..    i the fuel pump is working but what can have went wrong.. 

for the records i am using AEM V2  ECU,  SINGLE TURBO, FLEX FUEL,  AND 3 FUEL PUMPS I NEVER HAD THAT ISSUE CAR WAS FINE TUNED AT 900WHP BUT I WASNT RACING OR LAUNCHING ... WTF....

 

Any help please

IMG_0104.JPG

Heaps of things to look at but check the trigger setup (is it aftermarket?). If the ECU isn't getting a signal it won't inject or spark. 

Do you have an immobiliser that cuts fuel/spark? Quite often a candidate. 

Good luck!

  • Like 1

thanks for the respond Ewan.  i never had issue with the factory immobiliser, and the trigger setup u mean CAS. Y  would it go wrong it was working fine  and how do i trouble shoot it and btw it is factory cas

How many filters have you got in the fuel system? Pull them out and if you can't clean them cut one open to see if its blocked. Does the pump prime when you turn the ignition on? 

Quickest test is to try another CAS if you have access to one. If not you might need a workshop manual to look up testing procedure, I don't remember if there is another way to test it other than with an oscilloscope.

The fact that you have fuel pressure but no injection plus no spark you need to look at what components restrict both from happening. Can you use your ECU software to look at outputs while cranking?

my tuner gonna come by monday to see if its a tune problem.  i have r32 gtr is cas the same? i tried its coil no spark so definitely not coil

 

No luck today so, check injectors with noid light no working how ever there is power on injector and coils but not ground.  How the hell I lose ground all the sudden???? 

So I checked ecu pin lay out ecu got ground alright but pin 20 It's called. B/Y ignition signal system ground.  It don't have ground any ideal where this one go to so I can better track it.

is this thing have a common relay module I need to know about.

please guys help me out here. 

Thanks 

 

Hi, Just looked up pin 20 on the AEM ECU  EMS P/N 30-6620. If this is your ECU then pin 20 is a ground. The ECU sends a ground signal to fire the injectors. No ground . No injection. Only if the part number of your ECU matches the one you have that is. Do not ground pin 20 unless your ECU part number is EMS P/N 30-6620. I need to know your exact ECU Part number to verify what your pin 20 is.

Ignition signal signal system ground could mean anything I need to have more info. If the Ignition system ground is missing then I would assume there would also be no spark as well as no injection and possibly no fuel pump running.

Michael.

  • Like 1

Thanks Michael,. So  I figured it out today thank god, here was the problem.   1). CAS got damaged over time  the shaft in it  and barring got pushed out cuzing the CAS disk to grind against sensor.  Fixed  that got ground ground no problem  how ever.  Fuel is spraying now but end up with no power to the ignition coils.  Checked the egnition relay  behind ecu ( under dash left side) but there is a thick White wire got no power when Cranking, so kept  diagnosting  there was another fuse. A 10 amp fuse  in trunk next to the battery  in small fuse box.  I changed it and everything is working now.  ? 

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

  • Like 2

Good to hear you found the problems and fixed them. It's  a good feeling when you solve problems that seem too difficult at first. Understanding how machines should work helps a lot. Never stop learning.

Michael.

Edited by msammut

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...