Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am in the process of trying to confirm the kms on an R33 GTR that I am interested in buying. The seller does not have any of the normal import documentation (auction sheets, de-registration cert or a Jevic Cert). Normally in my buying process this would be the end of my investigation on a car and I would move on. However, the seller seems to believe that the NSW RTA holds copies of this documentation when the car is registered for the first time.

So my question to you: Does the NSW RTA hold copies of the original import documents when a car is imported into NSW for the first time?

I personally can't see this as being the case, however i thought I would throw this question out to a wider audience, as maybe, just maybe, someone out there has had a similar experience and can confirm one way or the other.

I'm in Victoria so have no experience with the NSW RTA. I have emailed the NSW RTA asking these very questions, but if they are like VicRoads, I could be waiting a while for a response.

Any light people can shed on this would be greatly appreciated. 

Ah, that's some very handy information. If i'm not mistaken the compliance shop should be on the sticker. So I should be able to back track these details if I put in the effort (which I'm starting to wonder about). I'll let you know what I come up with.

I can't say I have, I didn't know they existed. I will take a look into this. Thank you very much @Terry_GT-R34.

I'm still waiting to hear back from the NSW RTA (so at least they match VicRoads in that respect). I'll post up anything I hear back for future reference.

I have heard back from the NSW RTA via email: 

Quote

Dear Mr. Wood

Thank you for your query.

 

The Roads and Maritime Services (RMS) receives all odometer information from third parties, such as from vehicle inspectors during 'pink slip' inspections, and from motor dealers during the process of purchasing and selling vehicles. The accuracy of odometer reading information depends on the accuracy of the information that is provided to the RMS, therefore the RMS cannot independently verify whether odometer readings are correct.

 

It is for these reasons that the RMS does not provide odometer reading information to the general public.

 

If you suspect the odometer may have been tampered with it is suggested that you contact NSW Fair Trading for further investigation.

 

So in summary, the NSW RTA will not release any details regarding an imports first odometer reading. So I think as mentioned by Terry above, the best bet will be to go with a Japanese History Check or Japanese Odometer Check.

I certainly am learning a lot about imports considering I don't own one yet. :)

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...