Doing a +t conversion on an unopened RB25DE NEO (R34 GT)

[DatsunBanana]

Here's a quick pic of all the major bits I've got so far..

R33 turbo

R33 elbow

R33 manifold

R33 water lines and oil feed line

R33 heat shields

R34 3" downpipe

R34 GTT standard manual ECU

R34 standard injectors

Blitz FMIC kit

Also now have nearly all of the various fittings. Most are shown in one of my pics above plus I've now got the tee for the oil sender.

I just need gaskets, a bit more intercooler piping and a bit of hose to complete the oil and water lines.

I'm assuming I can use the O2 sensor off my NA?

I probably ought to get a bigger fuel pump soon as I've got it running with the above and I might get a BOV and boost gauge at some point. I think I'm gonna  have to do this sooner than I expected :-)

[hey_aleks]

Nice intercooler choice, the return flow type will shorten your piping quite a bit.

You're Gona need to make up some custom turbo lines as the metal ones won't have anywhere to go.

Will you be using your r34 loom? I'm not too sure how that's Gona work as the r33 aac unit is much smaller and different to the r34 as it doesn't have the same loom plugs. Id say using your n/a manifold will be alright but you'll have to buy a 90° bend pipe because it'll hit the strut Tower if you use an rb crossover. Also this would remove the bov like you want to. I have heard that some people end up having issues with not using the bov (no damage, just the afm detecting more air through its sensor and adding fuel to compensate) but you should be fine.

You should definitely run a boost gauge if you can. I realized yesterday that my plus T was only running on 4.5 psi as the boost tee was faulty. It already felt like day and night on that psi vs the n/a power. I could also see that I had a vacuum leak with the gauge as the needle was going down when I wasn't applying throttle.

Ill have my engine out today since I'm doing a manual conversion so I should be able to get some nice pics.

[DatsunBanana]

Yeah, for the custom turbo lines do you mean the intercooler to inlet and turbo or do you mean the oil/water lines? I'll need custom stuff to connect from intercooler pipes to the turbo and the y-pipe. Not sure what you mean about the AAC though. I was going to leave all that on the stock inlet system with the existing loom. There's some pics in a link I posted earlier of someone using the stock y pipe with a j-pipe off a turbo but put on sideways. Mine might be a bit like that but with a silicon 90 at the Y and custom pipe back towards the intercooler pipe in the wing.

If you meant oil/water I'll be cutting the banjo off the oil feed and joining to braided hose round to the oil sender tee. Drain will be custom using hose and the connectors I posted pics of earlier (a bit like yours). And for water lines I tried to explain my idea for that earlier. If it works I'll post pics and if not I'll cut off the banjos and connect via hose to heater pipes like you did. That reminds me ... you had oil in your turbo housing didn't you ... the standard oil feed pipe I bought has an approx 1mm restriction in one of the banjos and apparently this is cos the standard turbos are ball bearing. That's only what I've read but it made me wonder that if you used an4 hose without restriction it might be higher than expected oil flow.

You're right about the BOV and gauge I think so will see how it goes.

 

[hey_aleks]

I thought you were gona use an r33 intake plenum my bad, if you use the n/a 34 one it'll be fine.

I meant the coolant/oil lines for the turbo since I just saw stock hard lines in the pics but you've got the right idea anyways.

I took my engine out since I'm doing a manual conversion, here are some way better pics which woulda been amazing when I was doing mine haha let me know if you need any more.

[hey_aleks]

And yeah there was a tiny bit of oil coming out of the turbo before I fixed my line up but it's perfect now. I've redone my setup a few times now (after a few 4 hour drives) just to check up on everything and so far it's going great. If you check up on stuff a few times after the conversion you can make sure everything is put on properly.

[DatsunBanana]

Great pics. So that's what the back of the cylinder head looks like LOL. 

Here's what I got up to today. After getting the intercooler in place and marking up I took an angle grinder to the reo bar which was a lot easier than I expected. I cut the holes for the intercooler piping in the inner wing. The Blitz kit uses the standard holes so was just a matter of drilling them out. I used a 76mm hole saw and good old Nissan have even centre punched ready for the pilot drill. I also started work on cutting the inside plastic of the bumper. I used the angle grinder and a saw right where there was a natural lip on the inwards protrusion. It wasn't quite enough to let me push the bumper all the way back though so I'll finish that this weekend. I think the next line I cut might chip the paint a bit so need to think of something to prevent that - masking tape maybe or a finer saw.

[hey_aleks]

Wow your intercooler holes are great bro well done... its good that you're planning ahead, alot of tuners don't like to touch turbo conversions because there's no air flow on dynos which increases the heat inside the engine bay (Fire hazard if parts and clamps aren't put on properly).

Maybe put some rubber around the pipes where they enter the holes so they don't rub on the chassis (one of the tuners told me to do this).

Did you manage to get the fmic in without removing the horns? I removed mine at the start and it doesn't look like they'll fit so I'm curious to see if yours will.

Keep me updated buddy, we should all do like a mega thread when everyone is done.

[DatsunBanana]

Yeah the horns fit fine I also took the top one off to do the work but then put it back after. I did at first put some bends in the top one's bracket to set it back a bit but in the end it was fine so I straightened it up again. Here's a pic, there's about a centimetre of clearance between the horn and the intercooler.

Yep I'll protect the intercooler and piping from any metal edges and will also put a bit of paint on the bare metal - yellow Hammerite is a pretty good match for my car lol so going to respray the reo bar with that too.

[hey_aleks]

Ah sweet it all fits

Do you know how to treat any rusting stuff? I have some surface rust near one of my intercooler pipes and I'm not sure if I should just sand and primer or just leave it

[DatsunBanana]

I'm happy to be corrected by someone but I'd say get as much rust as possible off using a sanding or wire brush attachment in a drill and then some sort of treatment or inhibitive paint. That's why I got a couple of "Hammerite Direct to Rust" spray cans although I'll probably treat the rust too with one of the branded treatments. In this climate we get plenty of surface rust as you can see from the photos - makes yours look like a show car.

[hey_aleks]

Sweet thanks for the advice, lucky I didn't put the engine back in...
Have you done any welding work before?

[DatsunBanana]

No - unfortunately no welding experience. BTW, did you buy new exhaust manifold gasket or could you get it up and running first with the original one?

[hey_aleks]

Nah I just bought a new one from a generic Auto Shop for $55, what condition is your old one in?

[DatsunBanana]

Not sure till I take it apart. I think I'll order a new one before I start that.

[hugh jaynous]

You guys wouldn't happen to know the oil drain size of that hole we use for drain would you? or more so if it's npt or bspt since the thread angles are slightly different and the oil feed line is using bspt, so I'm guessing the drain plug is 3/4 bspt like the fittings banana bought? 

Edited November 8, 2016 by hugh jaynous

[hey_aleks]

3/4 bspt like banana I reckon but I'll check in a bit mate

[hugh jaynous]

23 minutes ago, hey_aleks said:

3/4 bspt like banana I reckon but I'll check in a bit mate

That's what I thought too, but those fittings are rare from what I have been able to find for a 3/4 bspt to AN 10 or 12 at a 45 angle. Straight ones I've yet to see as well. I've seen alot of people using 3/4 npt and some Teflon tape to ensure that the fitting doesn't come undone instead of bspt but if easier to just get npt i will make do I guess.

[DatsunBanana]

If it helps I could get one here and send across - I think the part was about 5 GBP. Or a different one from the UK if you wanted an AN fitting end. Postage is about 5 GBP untracked and 10 GBP tracked (7-10 days) and you could paypal me. Probably best to wait for confirmation though from Aleks or wait till I fit mine. I decided against an angled one cos I thought once it tightens on the tapered thread, the angled part might be pointing the wrong way. BTW - did you get the ECU?

[DatsunBanana]

Or there's this ... 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BRASS-MALE-BSPT-HOSE-TAIL-FITTING-CONNECTOR-1-4-3-8-1-2-3-4-1-GAS-WATER-OIL-AIR-/141926014965?var=&hash=item210b731ff5:m:mMyxf5-t7cIdny8nj0HFCUw

From UK, says they'll ship to Canada.

[hugh jaynous]

Yep definitely got the ecu last night! 135 for ecu is a steal! also I saw that but probably thought it was too small by the picture!  looked tiny till I remembered AN12 would be about the size of the the 3/4 adapter. I thought about the angled adapter not pointing right as well but I feel it would definitely help with gravity drain. 

Edited November 9, 2016 by hugh jaynous