Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 GTT Front Crank Worn - Some Advice

Hi everyone! I'm looking for some options and advice to a serious problem that occurred to me yesterday.

As you can see from the images below the front crank has been totally worn affecting the Harmonic Balancer and everything else etc effectively make the motor and car dead atm. My car has been extremely well looked after as with everything i own its just one of those devastating things that has happened as the mechanic has said and I still can't believe it. Car has done 130K.

I'm just feeling out the options as its essentially an engine rebuild and i'm doing career stuff overseas etc this is going to be extremely costly. Should i repair/rebuild/wield/sell/hold off any ideas and opinions are welcome.

Based on the Gold Coast, Tweed Heads so if anyone knows any advice on Skyline engine rebuilders as the mechanic shop it is currently residing at are not specialists in that area. They've been amazing to deal with as they have been for the whole time my car has been going there over the years.

Seriously gutted...

Thanks in advance everyone.

14632709_1799994426882282_1734670811_o.jpg

14699629_1799994463548945_448876541_o.jpg

14699396_1799994396882285_1790505862_o.jpg

Nissan_Skyline_Front.jpg

Ouch man that sucks, pretty rotten luck! My car's at the workshop at the moment for a head gasket so I've been going through similar questions.

I think a rebuild is probably the most expensive option, especially if all you're after really is a stock engine. Lots and lots of labour plus the risk of missing something in the assembly, unless you pick a really good workshop.

I reckon an engine swap is probably the way to go. You'd probably be looking at around 2k for a second hand Neo and another 2k or so in labour (unless you have a friendly shop) so 4k-ish all up.

If you were to sell, it sounds like the car is currently pretty much a rolling shell so would be tough to get a fair price for it. This said if you don't need the money now but can't afford to rebuild/replace the engine one option is to just let it sit for a while if you have the storage – the way the prices are looking at the moment is pretty stable.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Ouch man that sucks, pretty rotten luck! My car's at the workshop at the moment for a head gasket so I've been going through similar questions.

I think a rebuild is probably the most expensive option, especially if all you're after really is a stock engine. Lots and lots of labour plus the risk of missing something in the assembly, unless you pick a really good workshop.

I reckon an engine swap is probably the way to go. You'd probably be looking at around 2k for a second hand Neo and another 2k or so in labour (unless you have a friendly shop) so 4k-ish all up.

If you were to sell, it sounds like the car is currently pretty much a rolling shell so would be tough to get a fair price for it. This said if you don't need the money now but can't afford to rebuild/replace the engine one option is to just let it sit for a while if you have the storage – the way the prices are looking at the moment is pretty stable.

Thanks for the detailed reply man i really appreciate it and it helped. I just still don't know atm what to do! There will be a solution one way or another i guess!

Few questions, what is your plan for the car?

A daily driven one? Then an engine swap will be the cheapest. You don't necessarily need to go to a shop for that, a few mates with a bit of know how can do it in a day.

A weekend car? Again an engine swap is the cheapest.

Big power one day? Then pull the engine and do a forged rebuild. 

 

20 hours ago, Cadmoon said:

Few questions, what is your plan for the car?

A daily driven one? Then an engine swap will be the cheapest. You don't necessarily need to go to a shop for that, a few mates with a bit of know how can do it in a day.

A weekend car? Again an engine swap is the cheapest.

Big power one day? Then pull the engine and do a forged rebuild. 

 

I'd say atm it's a daily driver but i'm on and off overseas.

So mate it's looking to be an engine swap.

I think a big power pull would be up to 10-15k which i can't justify atm. She has lots of mods as does most but still standard engine internals and turbo so she's extremely clean atm

I want to keep her for a weekend car in the future but i'm not sure what my future career stuff is. Whether its here or overseas which is why this couldn't have happened at a worst time! I'm at a crossroads for a lot things...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...