Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clutch Master Cylinder Booster Delete

Hey guys. First post.

I've done a lot of reading and checking on pretty much every forum I can find, and I have yet to stumble across anyone who has completely gotten rid of the clutch vac booster.

Plenty of people running without her hooked up, but no one has bothered to delete the booster altogether and replace the master.

The idea is to delete the booster, install an after market clutch master with a remote res fitting, and use the brake master res to feed the clutch.

That would tuck that clutch master into the firewall, and eliminate the res.

Just wondering if anyone has any info whatsoever, or am I going to be the first to adapt a 300zx TT (or GTST) Clutch slave to remote type non-boosted?

Would seem like it would be no real problem to mount a RWD car's clutch master onto the firewall.  In fact, if I do recall, it's not that long since this was last discussed on this very forum.  Some better searching will probably yield results.  The changes are likely to be needing to drill different holes in the firewall, needing a different length clutch rod, needing to change the clutch hard pipe or replace with braided line.

The benefit of getting rid of the reservoir would seem to me to be nil, and far more hassle and mess than it's worth.  What were you planning to do?  Drill a hole in the side of the brake master's reservoir, poke in a bit of hose, hot melt glue it in place and stick the other end into the top of the clutch master with some bubble gum?  I can't think of an elegant way to do it.

Yuh....but how are you going to connect that to the inlet on the clutch master where the reservoir gets ripped off?


The idea would be to find a Wilwood master that has a threaded insert in place of the res.... then I can just tap that.
Go to page 11 if the link doesn't take you straight there. I haven driven with it yet so can't comment on how well it works. 


Which master cylinder are you using with that, and where did you buy the adaptor from? I can't find it

I'm pretty sure it's just a GTS-T master cylinder.  If you read my post later on there is some chat about a forum member (from NZ) that makes them.  You can send him a PM or search for Garage 101 (Perth) on Facebook.  That's where I got mine.  They send theirs with a master cylinder.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...