Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

URGENT - Recurring misfiring / stuttering problem with RB25DE engine.

Hi to all at SAU Community,

 

I own a 1994 R33 Skyline GST25 automatic with the series 1 RB25DE engine, which is the non-turbo engine. In the seven or so years I have owned the car, it's rarely given me a problem of any sort. I run the car on BP Premium Unleaded 95.

 

In the last 18 months I have started driving the car more often due to work reasons, about 4 times a week, and covering a lot more distance, although most of it is freeway driving. About 2 months ago, I started having a problem with the engine sometimes stuttering and misfiring. It seemed like it was running on 5 cylinders. The spark plugs had been changed a bit over 12 months before that (NGK Platinum plugs) , so it was doubtful it was the plugs, they should last 80,000-100,000 kms, and the car had not even done 20,000 kms in that time.

 

The local mechanic looked at it, could not find anything wrong, just 1-2 plugs needed a clean. He cleaned all the plugs and told me to see how it went for a little while. The car ran like a dream, punchier and more dynamic. All was fine for a while, and now in the last 2 weeks the problem returned, although not as bad as before. It seems to run fine after starting and then idling in park or neutral. Once shifted into drive and idling, or backing in reverse, the problem then appears - misfiring and mild kicking / stuttering. It goes away once back in drive and the car is travelling. It will re-appear when stopping at lights and idling in drive, and also when giving it some throttle while driving, or going up a hill. 

 

It all seemed to start after getting fuel at a Shell service station that I had not used before, and only went there out of necessity, so naturally at first I thought it was just bad fuel.

 

The problem continued, so back for another visit to the same mechanic. This time I'm getting told that spark plug no. 3 was rusty, meaning water was getting to it, and that a compression test indicated the beginning stages of a crack in the head gasket between the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. I'm told the car is still drivable, and changing the head gasket was not needed any time soon, but it would gradually get worse. 

 

While there, I had a new set of performance ignition coil packs put in, as well as a new fuel filter. No improvement. :s

 

My brother used to be a mechanic, and did his own inspection, and did not find symptoms of a cracked head gasket. Further opinions from 1-2 other retired mechanics agreed. So we are now considering bad advice or dishonesty from the mechanic who worked on the car. My brother poured a bottle of injector cleaner fluid, and also some basic stuff like topping the engine oil, and flushing the radiator with coolant. It actually runs better, but the problem is still there. He is now telling me I should get new spark plugs, especially since I have new coil packs, and to upgrade to Iridium plugs.

 

I am not rushing into buying new plugs just yet, as the current set of Platinum plugs have done a bit over 20,000 kms. Two different suppliers have told me in the last week that they should last 80,000-100,000 kms as said before.

 

MY QUESTION - Has anyone else experienced this or a similar problem, and what could the most likely cause be??? I've heard a range of causes ranging from bad fuel residue, to a cracked head gasket, depending on who you listen to.

 

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. George. 

CHANGE THE PLUGS!!!

 

You can't "clean" iridium plugs

 

throw some copper plugs in, check them in a couple of weeks, If 3 is rusty or coated in coolant than it is head off. Or spend a few hundred bucks on a wrecker motor.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

My car had misfire/running on 5 cyclinders during idle, and also hesitation/stuttering/whatever you call it at mid rpm or when it was trying to come on boost earlier this year.

The misfire was due to blockage in injectors (I run E85 and occasionally BP/Shell 98). Mechanic cleaned all the injectors and problem solved.

However still having the hestitation during mid rpm. Mech did all the mechanical checks and couldn't find anything so deemed it has to be electronic problems. So I replaced my old splitfire with brand new ones and bought brand new OEM loom. Problem solved.

From my researches, spark plugs, injectors, fuel systems, coilpacks are the common issues. So you are on the right track, just need to track it down I guess.

Although the platinum plugs SHOULD last 100k kms but they still have a chance to get faulty before that. As per @zebra, getting some cheap copper plugs to check wouldn't hurt.

Hopefully this helps.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...