Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the attached image is of my pod filter.

I want to move it more to the left, so it's easier to make a cold air box for it. I tried to do it the other day but it was near impossible as the filter is too close to the intercooler pipes. How does one extend the intake pipe? I've seen it before with other people...

What's the cannister to the right of the pod filter?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46809-2-questions-rb20/
Share on other sites

Looks like your pod is attached directly to the AFM. You'll proly need an adapter pipe of some sorts. I have a GReddy (dunno if it's genuine tho) adapter that mounts the pod abouts where your intake duct is sitting now from (what remains of) the stock airbox. I can take a picture of it if you like, but am at work atm so I'll have to do it later. You'll proly not want the pipe to be as long as mine tho...

Hey, OT but could you do me a big favour? Could you take a picture of where the front of the intake duct goes into? I've never seen it before (got my 32 with a pod already installed), and I have the stock airbox and I'm not sure where the start of the intake duct is suppose to go (I'll proly put the stock airbox on when summer comes around).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46809-2-questions-rb20/#findComment-949406
Share on other sites

Hey, OT but could you do me a big favour? Could you take a picture of where the front of the intake duct goes into? I've never seen it before (got my 32 with a pod already installed), and I have the stock airbox and I'm not sure where the start of the intake duct is suppose to go (I'll proly put the stock airbox on when summer comes around).

The intake goes underneath the headlight, but it's a hopeless position really as it has poor air flow behind the front bar and other misc stuff.

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46809-2-questions-rb20/#findComment-949500
Share on other sites

rayage - here's some I prepared earlier...or did you mean the airbox intake under the headlight.

MM2death - thanks mate...I think mine's leaking as the pipes coming from it have some liquidy substance coming from it :devil:

Yeah might be a good idea to check your level and check the sealing on the screw cap.

You have a FMIC correct? That's the problem when your FMIC kit reverts back to the standard piping as with mine the piping from the outlet of the intercooler comes up the driver side and across the radiator fan. I've freed up one of the standard holes now and use it for CAI.

As for your problem, you might have to put in an extension piece from the AFM to where you want your pod to go or even do away with the whole rubber inlet pipe and fabricate something. Theres certainly not much room around the area.

Here's a couple pictures...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46809-2-questions-rb20/#findComment-949544
Share on other sites

The intake goes underneath the headlight, but it's a hopeless position really as it has poor air flow behind the front bar and other misc stuff.

Scott

Cool thanks. I was kinda concerned whether I got all the necessary parts to the stock airbox when I got the car. I know the 33s have a plastic intake adapter thingy mounted to the top of the left headlight, but I couldn't see anything similar on my 32.

rayage - here's some I prepared earlier...or did you mean the airbox intake under the headlight.

Yea I was referring to the airbox intake under the headlight. I wasn't sure where the intake duct (into airbox) actually went. :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46809-2-questions-rb20/#findComment-949558
Share on other sites

Cool thanks. I was kinda concerned whether I got all the necessary parts to the stock airbox when I got the car. I know the 33s have a plastic intake adapter thingy mounted to the top of the left headlight, but I couldn't see anything similar on my 32.

Usually when the airbox is removed and replaced with an pod filter, a plastic duct is left bolted in place underneath the headlight. In addition to that, there should be an additional plastic snorkel that connects from the duct under the headlight to the actual airbox itself.

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46809-2-questions-rb20/#findComment-949578
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...