Jump to content
SAU Community

Problems with 1995 gtst

MISTIQUE
 Share

Recommended Posts

fordxr Newbie

fordxr

Posted
Posted
  aybee said:
thats alright, ill take that on the chin.  

but there is a big difference between expensive and overpriced.

on topic, get a series 2.

:) Well said aybee. :)

So apart from obvious cosmetic difference between the series 1 and 2 (body kit, interior, ECU) was there any faults with the series I over the series II?

The car MISTIQUE is in fact enquiring about is (apparently) a 1995 series 1.5.

So is it worth while spending a little more and looking around for a series II, or are they much the same?

Cheers.

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
Posted
  krzysiu said:
Ok the only problem i can say with every R33 is water getting in the rear lights :) I cant get it out :)

Hey K, yeah,

I had the same problem with my 95T with water in the rear right lamp. ended up just pulling the thing completely off the car, re-sealing it with non-acidic silicon (can be cut-out in you next accident), then re-applying while semi dry. Also, running a small bead of silicon around the upper seal (while the lamps is installed) also completely keeps water out. (don't worry about using silicon, as it does less damage to your car than allowing water to 'come in and stay). I bet that on warmer days, the water 'condenses' and appears on your rear windscreen???????

It eventually kills everything in your boot!!!

As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2). The last S1 has most of the s2 stuff, just cheaper and better looking front...mmmmmm...very subjective thought :Oops: !!!

Anyways.......

SuperSpitMark.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
  fordxr said:
So apart from obvious cosmetic difference between the series 1 and 2 (body kit, interior, ECU) was there any faults with the series I over the series II?

The car MISTIQUE is in fact enquiring about is (apparently) a 1995 series 1.5.

So is it worth while spending a little more and looking around for a series II, or are they much the same?

Cheers.

The main "fault" with the series 1 was the ECU, which tends to run way too rich when upping the boost. You can easily fix this with an S-AFC, and bring it up to the same power levels as the later ECU. The 95 series 1.5 uses the updated ECU and so doesn't have this problem.

The only other minor fault I can think of is the dash surround and door handle surround is coated in this thin rubber type stuff, which tends to peel fairly easily. This was fixed with the series 2 (not 1.5). But that's really minor.

These cars aren't like Commodores and Falcons which get released with a whole BUNCH of problems, and then they fix half of them with the series 2, and then change models and start off with a whole new bigger batch of problems. This is the reason why I think the VS series 2 Commodore is a less buggy car than a VT series 1.

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted
  superspit said:
Hey K, yeah,

I had the same problem with my 95T with water in the rear right lamp. ended up just pulling the thing completely off the car, re-sealing it with non-acidic silicon (can be cut-out in you next accident), then re-applying while semi dry. Also, running a small bead of silicon around the upper seal (while the lamps is installed) also completely keeps water out. (don't worry about using silicon, as it does less damage to your car than allowing water to 'come in and stay). I bet that on warmer days, the water 'condenses' and appears on your rear windscreen???????

It eventually kills everything in your boot!!!

As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2). The  last S1 has most of the s2 stuff, just cheaper and better looking front...mmmmmm...very subjective thought  :Oops: !!!

Anyways.......

SuperSpitMark.

Thx for that, its my Rear Right one too :)

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Fuel consumption will feel bad especially when you jumped from a previous 4-cyl common shopping carts. Heck even my bro complaint about fuel consumption after he replaced his 95 Civic sedan with the new Accord Euro - and his 4-cyl Accord Euro consumption is still LESS than my car!

aybee Experienced

aybee

Posted
Posted
  superspit said:
As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2

thats ironic, cause pretty much the only reason i dont like the S1 is cause of the front bar. i think its even got to the stage where i see a stock S1 and cringe at the sight of its front end.

as for the wings, i dont really mind the S1 wing cause its more subtle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Rb25det coil loom wire identification

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...