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For a complete novice it would take 4-5 hours if you take your time and document everything.  Get 20 zip lock bags and put all of the nuts and bolts in labelled bags.  Take heaps of photos.  It all helps when you go to re-assemble even if just for routing of hoses/wires/etc.

While you're at it (if not done prior) replace EVERY cooling system hose under the inlet manifold.  Use genuine if you can afford it.  Also replace all vaccum hoses especially the ones that run around the back of the head for the waste gate actuators.  after 20+ years they all go hard and can crack.  Being where they are located you don't find out till it's too late!

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Oh, man, if you want a list of all the things you should replace when you have taken that much of the engine apart, it includes (but is certainly not limited to!)

  • All gaskets.  Obviously enough, but people do sometimes expect to be able to reuse turbo and dump gaskets and so on, and if they are older than a very short time, it's better to replace.
  • The heater hoses that connect the engine to the firewall.  They are well old now too.  They probably fall under the category mentioned by Shoota above.
  • The timing belt, obviously enough, unless you know that it is recently replaced.
  • The water pump.  Thermostat.  Radiator hoses if they don't feel fresh.
  • Head studs.  Prime time to put ARP ones in.

 

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On 13/01/2017 at 5:32 PM, 89CAL said:

Its been a while but arent there some plugs up around that area? I assumed they were for coolant but could be wrong. Worth pulling the whole coil pack assembly off i would think if you havent already done so.

Also, its easier to undo the 5 bolts that hold the coil pack brackets in place to do plugs than to pull each individual coil pack off. If it helps :)

Cyl%20head%20plug_zpspvtu2uj0.jpg

 

That was the plug I was talking about. I think there are a few along the top of the head. Wouldnt hurt to pull all the coilpacks out and check. They may be for oil though. I'm not 100% sure

Edited by 89CAL
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  • 2 weeks later...

Update: I did a compression test and a block test to see if any exhaust was in the coolant system.

Block test: Negative

Compression Results: each cylinder was done 3 times and the engine was warm. I did not have the throttle wide open during the test.

1. 160

2. 160

3. 160

4. 160

5. 160

6. 152

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  • 4 weeks later...

IMG_1202.JPG

So here's an update: I'm saving up money to purchase a new head from TOMEI so in the meanwhile I used JB Weld to fill the hairline crack in my head. It has been 3 weeks and not a drop of coolant has leaked from the where the hairline crack was. I was very iffy about using JB Weld on my cylinder head but to-date it has worked wonderfully.

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