Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r34 25gt auto

Hey guys just coming into my p plates (reds) and for my first car i got a r34 25gt  i know its and auto an non turbo not that great but for a first car i thought id buy it  and because i love my skylines! currently 17 and an apprentice diesel mechanic saving for a skyline r34 gtr for off my p's
So lets get to it! 
Its RWD 
Has sports transmission 5 speed 

Wanting to boost up some hp on it not wanting to spend more then 5k 

What would be some decent mods to do to the engine etc..! 



Thanks guys! 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469544-r34-25gt-auto/
Share on other sites

You have to spend megabucks to get an N/A to make power. Learn to drive better, maintain your car, get decent tyres and suspension so you can go as fast as possible and put the rest of your money in the bank towards the day when you can get a GTT

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469544-r34-25gt-auto/#findComment-7816288
Share on other sites

Spend money on tyres and suspension. Upgrade the pads and go track days. Learn how to drive the car and save up for a turbo when you get off your P's.
In the mean time, just enjoy cruising around and becoming familiar with driving on the roads with other people.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469544-r34-25gt-auto/#findComment-7816343
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...