Jump to content
SAU Community

Disabling Engine Light

Brodie_v35
 Share

Recommended Posts

Brodie_v35 Rookie

Brodie_v35

Posted
Posted

Disabling Engine Light

Hi,

 

This is my first time posting.

I own a 2003 V35 Coupe 6MT, I have been having alot of problems with the car since I bought it.

I have recently moved states and the car needs a roadworthy. The Engine light has come on and I can't seem to clear it.

The codes being thrown out is stating that all 4 O2 sensors are stuffed, which I find hard to believe as the car only has 37xxx on it and hasnt been driven in the 3.5 years that I've owned it. (Loss of licence).

I can't get a roadworthy with the engine light on and the mechanic who has looked at it says he is 99% certain that all 4 sensors wouldn't go at once.

I need to get the car registered so I can take it to a skyline import specialist in brisbane (an hour south of me). I was just wondering if the engine light has a dedicated fuse which I can remove just until the roadworthy is complete so I can take it and get it looked at as I think there is a far deeper problem.

I could replace the O2 sensors but this is fairly costly for me and I'd hate to do it if it doesn't need to be done.

The other option  I was thinking of was removing the bulb from the instrument cluster so the light doesn't illuminate.

I've already tried several different methods of clearing the CEL, which works until the car is driven and it comes straight back on.

Is there anyone out there who can recommend ANYTHING to me as I'm pretty desperate at this stage.

 

Screen Shot 2017-04-11 at 1.32.27 pm.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469975-disabling-engine-light/
Share on other sites
Brodie_v35 Rookie

Brodie_v35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There was roughly half and 8th left in it which wasn't drained. I topped it up last week after the fuel light came on. I guess I could drain the fuel and see if that helps.

Is there anyway to disable the engine light in the meantime though? Does anyone know of any guides to remove the instrument cluster?

V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted

You can get a temp permit to drive the car for 24Hrs to go to point A to B then back to A. If its for getting the car repaired for pits.

If you just need to get it to the import specialist then this is the best bet. then they can fix it properly.

Saves time messing around

 

 https://www.service.transport.qld.gov.au/unregisteredvehiclepermit/public/Welcome.xhtml?windowId=c6f

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...