Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking of letting go of my 1996 R33 Gts-t which I have owned for 4 years.

This car is one of the last R33’s that have been kept in immaculate condition. Every modification has been performed with performance and reliability in mind. Every nut and bolt has been torqued to OEM Nissan spec as I am extremely fussy when it comes to working on cars.  All modifications were performed in the last 10,000km and nearly all parts were purchased new.

 

A general overview: 

1996 ECR33 Gts-t

122,000kms  - Genuine (have jap auction sheets)

Zero crash history

 

Engine:

100,000km Service performed (timing belt, tensioner and water pump)

Hypergear 21U High-flow turbo

JJR bell mouth dump pipe

Venom 100cpsi high flow cat

Apexi N1 cat-back system

Apexi PowerFC with hand controller

S15 440cc Injectors

Walbro 255lph fuel pump

Cooling Pro ‘No Holes’ stealth intercooler

Z32 AFM

Custom aluminium intake pipe

 

Drivetrain:

NPC Organic 10” Clutch installed by Forced Motorworks

Fresh transmission and diff fluid

GKTech clutch damper eliminator

 

Suspension:

BC BR Coilovers

Hardrace front LCA bushes

Hardrace adjustable caster arms

HICAS lock bar kit

 

Wheels:

Work Emotion XD9

18x9 +30 with Kumho KU36

18x10 +38 with Federal 595SS 

Wheels were powder coated in space blue and are immaculate with new Genuine Work decals.

 

Interior:

Series 3 R33 GT-R seats in immaculate condition.  These cost over 1k alone.

Full alarm and immobilizer

Full Genuine Nissan 'Skyline' floor mat set

JDM Clarion system

 

This car has been serviced with fully synthetic oil and Nissan filter every 5,000km without exception. All fluids including clutch, brakes and diff have been replaced in the last 5,000km. 

The car has been tuned by Chequered Tuning and currently makes 260rwkw on pump 98, or about 300kw at the flywheel. Very responsive and will chop most things on the road. 

 

Downsides are:

•Front bar has some scratches on the bottom.

•RH rear quarter has a scratch in the clear coat.

Apart from the above the paint is excellent.

 

The buyer of this car will receive a full folder of receipts totalling over $20,000 as well as dyno sheets for the tune and original Japanese auction papers.  

You will not find a cleaner, more genuine Skyline anywhere else.

Registration is included but RWC will be left up to the buyer.

This car has no finance owing, no stolen history and no written off history.

 

Inspections are welcome however no one will sit in the drivers seat until I have cash in hand. 

The price is $14,000. This is open to negotiation however stupid offers will be ignored. 

Text on 0411 582 453 or PM

20151214_181310-1.jpg

17883702_10211032865272610_5822155757226860856_n.jpg

Edited by colourclassic
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469979-immaculate-300kw-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...