Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Stagea Engine Light Help - long start, can't pull diagnostics

Adam1983

By Adam1983,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Adam1983 Newbie

Adam1983

Posted
Posted
M35 Stagea Engine Light Help - long start, can't pull diagnostics

Hi Wagoneers,

long time lurker, first time poster hoping for some help.

Car: 2001 M35 Stagea (VQ25DET)
Issue: Long crank then start, check engine light, drives normal (possibly less power, i haven't tried flogging it)

I have searched all of the threads and tried to pull the codes from the CEL/MIL and I can't get the thing to flash for me.  I've tried 10 times and I don't think its because i'm not getting the timing right on the sequence.

I have the xanavian english conversion on the TV, was done before i bought it so not sure if that has prevented the stock display from showing any further CEL info.

I have a sneaky suspicion it might be cam or crank sensor but would love to pull a code to confirm / check if its still safe to drive to work/drop the kids without doing any damage.

any thoughts, ideas or even just a light ribbing from some veterans is welcome.

cheers

Adam

 

 

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

To get into the diagnostics, you have to do the sequence spot on, use a watch or stop watch, the timing is critical. Your fault does sound like a cam sensor, possibly crank. Once you get a code you'll know which sensor. Make sure you buy a genuine Nissan replacement. They are available from kudos motorsport for 110 each. Just replace the one that is playing up. No need to replace all of them.

Adam1983 Newbie

Adam1983

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Peeps,

it turns out the lack of codes was my fault, I used a stopwatch and got it first go...

So the code was in flashes [10, 3, 4, 10] which i understand is 0340 or P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction.

anyone know if its OK to drive gingerly around town until I can get any further with this?

Adam1983 Newbie

Adam1983

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the quick responses guys, kudos motorsports looks like the go.  Whats the easiest way to tell which side is faulty? (sorry i'm partial noob).  From reading i can see, possible stalling and hard to start but nothing major, would you feel comfortable to keep driving it until the part arrives?

cheers

Adam

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

Yes it's ok to drive, the car will be a bit laggy because the cams wont be advancing and it may also stall randomly which can be dangerous if you're not expecting it. Drive it cautiously with the expectation it could possibly stall on you.

 

Code p0340 is drivers side cam sensor which is the more difficult one to get to.

 

 

Adam1983 Newbie

Adam1983

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, admS15 said:

Yes it's ok to drive, the car will be a bit laggy because the cams wont be advancing and it may also stall randomly which can be dangerous if you're not expecting it. Drive it cautiously with the expectation it could possibly stall on you.

 

Code p0340 is drivers side cam sensor which is the more difficult one to get to.

 

 

Thanks mate, very helpful and much appreciated.

cheers

Adam

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...