Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB20E to RB20DET Questions

So I'm all the way across the world in the USA and picked up a c33 Laurel recently with the auto RB20E.

Our info on these is super limited as they just became legal here a couple years ago. While I save the money, I'd like to know a few things about the swap.

When I go 5 speed and do the motor swap, will the RB20DET's 5 speed tranny fit up in the Laurel correctly?  If not, what parts do I need?

If I go with just the RB20DET, can my RB20E auto tranny bolt up to it or are modifications needed/do I need the RB20DET auto tranny?

I may not go 5 speed instantly because money plays a factor. 

Sorry if these questions have been asked a lot. I've googled for a good while and can't find a whole lot on the Laurel, let alone the RB20E.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470407-rb20e-to-rb20det-questions/
Share on other sites

Are you planning to get an RB20DET engine or just turbo the one you have? Either way the auto should work but its life may not be long if you hammer it. I have no direct experience of the Laurel but since there are plenty of them with a 25DET in them I suspect that most swaps will be pretty routine and there are guides on how to convert auto to manual in here that will probably help you. For the RB20DET you may need a suitable ecu but hopefully someone who has done it will put you right.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...