Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Blown head gasket ?

Hey guys n gals, so I've just purchased my first non holden car at the ripe age of 27...got a r33 turbo has a few decent mods ..exhaust, coilovers turbo timer, fmic few other bits n peices, ran perfectly fine but noticed the oil is milky so it's time to remove the head n replace the gasket n timing belt... any tips n tricks that can be thrown my way would be muchly appreciated I've done many head gaskets before jus never worked on a skyline before, only Rv motor I've touched was my old vl Calais turbo I had about 6 yrs ago...cheers 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470996-blown-head-gasket-%3F/
Share on other sites

Yes ARP studs are reusable. Rb's have a water/oil heat exchanger located bellow the oil filter. Sometimes these can fail and allow water into the oil system. Just thinking out loud and something you could check before you go ripping the head off.

Thank you for the reply mate I didn't kno that......any idea on a price to replace that? The radiator had pressure aswell wasn't bubbling jus popped when removing the cap not sure if it's normal for this motor and or turbo motors..

 

cheers 

Was the motor warm, as the radiator will pressurise normally. Idealy I'd do a compression test. Tk test, and if there both ok then I'd just pull the water lines off the heat exchanger, loop them together and get the rb30 oil filter stud and remove the heat exchanger all together

http://wbtools.com.au/products/automotive-equipment/tee-kay-head-check-combustion-leak-detector/ is a tk test, basically you use the pump on it to Pump some air off the top of the radiator and if the fluid the air goes threw changes colour it means there's combustion gases in the cooling system, with the most likley cause being a blown head gasket. However if you have oil and water mixing with a negative tk test and even compression it's most likly not from a blown head gasket

Ahk lol yea I get what u mean I've done it to a few cars before jus never heard of it being called a tk test lol in saying that I've been away from cars for a fair few yrs due to loss of license ..only got it back like a month ago...thanx for the help mate..pretty sure I have one of those test kits laying around my shed somewhere..lent my compression tester out n never saw it again so I'll invest in a new one of those aswell, I'm doubting it being blown head gasket only bcoz of how good the car ran most seem to struggle under load etc that I've dealt with anyhow..hoping it's that heat exchanger thing I've got the timing belt off but I'll put it back together n get rid of the heat exchanger n c how it goes after tests.

 

so I'll need to run a rb30 oil filter with this adaptor once I remove the heat exchange? 

When you unbolt the heat exchanger you will see a metal fitting in the block. If you unscrew it a rb30 stud screws in, can be bought from Nissan for like $10 then a oil filter will screw straight to.the block. However it's best to use a z418 with an internal bypass valve after that as the z145 doesn't have the internal bypass as it's built into the heat exchanger

  • Like 1

K so i put it all back together today filled radiator with jus water it started perfectly fine and nothing out of the ordonary drove it out the back yard n reversed it back to the carport area... opened up the radiator cap and it had heaps of pressure in t and really frothy.... turned it straight off n dropped a few F bombs lol head gasket is deffs gone the exhaust had shit coming out clear fluid no smoke that i could see... already priced head gasket n gates racing belt kit through kudos motorsport ill jus have to bite the bullet n do it 

Yea owell shit happens lol it wasnt very hot had the thermos running from the moment i started it as they run of a toggle switch...and it pushed out a heap of frothy water when i took the cap off n was a decent amount of pressure behind it...its a shame but at leaste i kno what the issue is and i can fix it all myself...

thanx a bunch for the input guys look forward to being part of the skyline community ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...