Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

Well, I've made my kit up and it works great. Takes some tuning to get it right, but when it's right, it goes great.

Kit will come complete with two valve and check valve, as described in Autospeed articles Autospeed article

Valves will be mounted to a bracket, all you will have to do it mount the bracket and plug in your boost lines.

Price change : $130 (plus shipping which will be $15 anywhere in Australia)

I will require payment up front, and the kits should be ready in 7-10 days.

See attached pic for the example of what it will look like.

Current people in buy are

ADZMAX

SKYLINEGEOFF

CEREALKILLLER

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47127-group-buy-pneumatic-boost-control/
Share on other sites

Okay, I noticed the following.

The thing takes a little while to set up, but once set it says set.

Tranisent boost response, ie getting on the throttle in higher gears is much better, insted of slowly building, it just goes straight up to full boost.

First gear is not all that noticeable simply because my car revs out so fast in first anyway.

But spooling is definently quicker.

BASS OUT

Possibly interested...

Do you just mount in the normal position between the presure point and actuator? I'm a bit of a dumb arse when i comes to the mechanics of the turbo and am concerned i would not know where to install it...

So your saying the advantage is that the boost comes on quicker than a normal single stage controller? I read in your first page on this that it acts more like a Electronic Controller. Is this correct?

Regards,

Jeremy

PRICE CHANGE. NOW $130 complete

GOT SOME BETTER QUOTES FOR THE PARTS.

Need at least 5 people though.

If we get 10, then price drops to $125 each.

BASS OUT

I'm in for sure. These things are great and the theory is sound. The fact you can controll how quick and how strong boost comes on is awesome. I run a standard bleed at the moment and was keen to get one of these kits just could never be farked building it :)

This is a slightly neater way to do it Later on I put it inside the cold air box

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/members/5...takes%20003.jpg

Hey Jay,

I notice you've got the upgraded pressure regulator there. Did it make a big difference in controlling boost? was it worth the extra $$$???

Zahos

That's a good question and something that I might investigate.

I drove to Bendigo and back today and had a lot of opportunities to play with the boost control, mainly slowing down to 80 and dropping it up to 110 (legal limit) to see what the boost does in each gear.

What I found is that the boost will spool to the set level (first valve) in first and second no problem, but then third gear, it would boost to set level and then drop right off, like the wastegate was flying open.

The boost would eventually build to the peak level, but not until 5-6k rpm.

So tonight when I get back, I removed the new second valve (peak boost valve) and replaced it with my old bleed.

Problem solved.

I'm going to investigate another valve that I'm sourcing and try it on my car first.

I hope you all appreciate this!!

BASS OUT

I think it's probably not worth the extra cash. the system works well with the one way valve ensuring that the line to the wastegate loses any contained boost pressure as soon as you take your foot off. If you'r finding that boost builds too slowly it's possible that the wastegate is starting to open too soon. This is controlled by the other valve.

I found that the system is sensitive to it's ambient temp. In the Audi it sits against the firewall on the cool side of the motor ( The origional car lives on the Gold Coast) The usual mount point in the Skyline is in a place that can get hot. Thats why I moved it inside the airbox

The reason I finally removed it was I couldn't keep the same boost in all gears, eg 1.2Bar in 1 and 2, 1.4Bar in 3 and up to 1.7 bar in 4th + an E-Boost came up at a good price.

I never had a problem with slow boost buildup or falling off. I was on full boost by 3100rpm in any gear and at least 60%boost by 2700 rpm. It is a good system....but you need to really understand how it works and be prepared to fiddle to get it spot on.

After fitting the old Bleed valve, I now have the impression of the steering wheel on my forehead, as boost cut happened heaps last night.

Can't get it right.

I did have a little restrictor in the system before the first valve as one was fitted in front of the old bleed valve.

I have now pulled that out, but not had a chance yet to go for a drive.

I have to go out this morning at some stage so I'll have another play and let you know.

Can anyone explain this to me like im 7yrs old?

As I understand it a boost controller lets pressure out so the wastegate diaphram doesn't open and allows the turbz to deliver a higher pressure of boost . i.e. "boosted" car.

This looks like it has 2 valves? I read the autospeed article 3 times and still don't understand the difference.

Could someone explain this to me please?

:headspin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...