Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lowering a r33 gts-4

Hi, just after some advice in how low you can lower a gts-4 or gtr without effecting the camber or geometry of the awd and suspension. The car is going to be street driven so nothing crazy low and still legal limit from the ground. But Would anyone know how low you can go on standard camber adjutsment and control arms ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471396-lowering-a-r33-gts-4/
Share on other sites

The usually accepted number is the same, both for legality reasons and also how well the suspension works.  This is an "eyebrow height" of around 340-345mm.  The eyebrow height is defined as the vertical distance from the centre of the wheel hub (actually the centre of the wheel's own centre cap will do) to the height of the standard wheel arch/guard lip.  Actually measuring it on the slight outward angle that is likely to result from the wheel sitting slightly inside the line of the guard is not really a problem.  No worse than the measurement error of eyeballing a tape measure anyway.

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The usually accepted number is the same, both for legality reasons and also how well the suspension works.  This is an "eyebrow height" of around 340-345mm.  The eyebrow height is defined as the vertical distance from the centre of the wheel hub (actually the centre of the wheel's own centre cap will do) to the height of the standard wheel arch/guard lip.  Actually measuring it on the slight outward angle that is likely to result from the wheel sitting slightly inside the line of the guard is not really a problem.  No worse than the measurement error of eyeballing a tape measure anyway.

 alright good thanks for the reply so if i stay over 350mm from the top of the guard to the centre of the hub, I shouldnt need to get adjustable conrtol arms and camber kits, just a aliment will do ?? 

I wouldn't say that you wouldn't need adjustable somethings.  That depends on the physical state of your existing bushes, how bent parts of the car are, etc etc.  Also, at or near that minimum height, you will possibly end up with more -ve camber than you'd like, particularly at the rear.  So some Whiteline kits installed in the rear uppers might make a lot of sense. There pretty much is no camber adjustment in the stock suspension.

I personally would not try to avoid putting in at least adjustable poly bushes in the front uppers and rear uppers, adjustable front caster rods with rod end (rose) joints, and possibly one or two other things.  Having the ability to wind in a little more camber at the front or a little less, plus change the caster can make a massive difference to how the car drives, tyres last, etc etc.

 

I would get them if i could afford them but i just brought bc coilovers for it and cant spend a heap of money right now, i only plan on having the car 360mm eyebrow height, i dont mind gettibg adjustable bushings for it but trying to avoid getting new caster and upper control arms 

Thanks for the advice appricate it 

 

 

 

Edited by Rewseyracing

I just checked the official pdf from SA Transport for the eyebrow heights.  R32&3 turbos are F345, R355.  All R34s are F340, R345.  R32&3GTR are F375, R355.

These are all with the vehicle in operating condition, but unladen.  So, no load in the boot, no passengers.

360 will be fine.  But keep in mind that 360 F&R might look a little wrong.

The 100mm clearance under the car and the 2/3s original suspension travel requirements are also in play but you should not have a problem at the acceptable eyebrow heights unless your exhaust hangs low or you have an extra CF lip on the front.

Thanks for all the help ill defently make sure the exhaust and everything else is above 100mm and hopefully have the front at 360-370mm and rear at 350-355mm. Ill still get the adjustable upper control arm bushes and rear bushes just to make sure the tyre wear is going to be happy 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...