Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing Side Skirts??? URGENT


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

My R33 Gtst When it came over from Japan never came with side skirts and rear pods, very stockish I guess the full type-m body kit was an option...

My problem is that I have found some factory type-m side skirts but before I buy them I am wondering how the hell do you mount them??? Especially the side skirts?? Since I just had a look at the car and even underneath I can’t see any decent holding points.

Just need to know if anyone has removed their side skirts before:

How do they come off and how do you get them on??

How they actually mount the car??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47159-installing-side-skirts-urgent/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

Thanks for the quick reply. Here are some pics I have found of the factory side skirts. But I’ll still going to see the side skirts in the flesh to make up my mind before I buy them. Not that keen on drilling holes into the body :(

Hope to get some more feedback from people :)

Thanks For your Time. Rob

Yup you can see the 2 bolt holes either end, plus maybe 2 bolts along the middle on the inside and its done.

Just pay the money and get it done professionally is my only advice, even if you have to wait an extra month to get it done :)

Guest RedLineGTR
Yup you can see the 2 bolt holes either end, plus maybe 2 bolts along the middle on the inside and its done.

Just pay the money and get it done professionally is my only advice, even if you have to wait an extra month to get it done :)

Yah i'll see how it goes, since i know i have holes for bolts near the front guard but nothing on the rear knore on the bottom. Maybe i'll use double sided tape :) j/k I"ll just have to wait and see :(

Rob,

From the factory they attach with a series of clips into the door sill and 2 screws at either and.

I was in the same position as you, car had no skirts when I imported. I glued my skirts along the door sill (its easier, less fiddly and just as strong) and screwed at either end.

Hope this helps

Guest RedLineGTR

Life savers :rolleyes: sweet thanks for the info. If they just clip on and bolt on thats sweet saves me trying to get them into my car i can just clip them on!! on the spot too :rofl: saves them sticking out the windows. Thanks Again. Will let you guys know how i go tomorrow will be picking up some freshly paint sideskirts and rear pods for a good price.

Cheers Rob :D

No you have misunderstood, sorry. Since your car did not have skirts from the factory it doesn't have the holes to clip onto. You need to drill these holes and put a plug into the holes, which a clip will then clip into. The alternative is to glue them, and not drill any holes, which is easier :rolleyes:

Guest RedLineGTR

Ah...that makes it clearer..cos i remember somewhere i saw a photo of all these clips/plugs on the side of the car when a sideskirt was removed and i wasn't sure if it was those. Hmmm dont know if i want to glue them. if the screws hold them in place half decently i'd rather use double sided tape since if i do intend to remove them sometime i wont loose half my paint from the glue :rolleyes: or i just might decide that i dont want to bother with them.

sideskirts are easy as to install and so are rear pods. if your car has mud guards there gonna have to come off. and u just use those holes. and then on the rear of the side skirts your gonna have to drill new holes to fit them. also by some stuff called sikaflex from most car stores and put a few dots on the top of the skirts to hold them in place

Yeah i was told to use sikoflex as well as drilling two holes or so to mount the sideskirts. As for the pods- if they're fibreglass copies taken from a mould may be a bit of mucking around, especially pressing the lip part up and around the rear bar. I used tiny plugs to hold that curving part in, but my car is black so can easily get away with it. The end result looks really neat and professional, but there was a bit of mucking around involved. Otherwise just take it down and get someone else to do it!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...