Jump to content
SAU Community

Two faults with my v36

Pete_Repeat
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
Posted (edited)

Two faults with my v36

So I have two faults with my v36 manual coupe and wondering if this is a common thing. 

 

One is the clutch sticking to the floor on spirited take off's and the second is axle/driveline shudder or bounce with wheel spin on certain surfaces.

The worst of the two is the clutch that I'm pretty sure is a clutch slave cyclinder problem... Again!!

When I got the car I found that the clutch felt fine until on the occasions I did a spirited take off with some revs/throttle and "clutch control" (not riding ha ha) for a good take off. The clutch would stick half way to the floor until I either backed off or pulled the pedal back manually. I nursed the clutch from then as occasionally the clutch would slip when this happened. Absolutely no problem with the clutch on normal driving, nor full throttle when the clutch was fully out. Just couldn't give full throttle before the clutch was out. 

Anyway, so after they changed the clutch fluid, then the master cylinder it came down to the slave cylinder which fixed the problem. Scored a new stock clutch plate out of it as well as the master cylinder which didn't need replacing. 

Problem is it has now come back after less than 20k. I don't usually abuse the clutch however, with reviews matching on down shifts and usually low revs to take of so not riding the clutch. 

Thing is I have driven manual for most of my life and neither of my s15 had this problem with the last one close on 200kw at the wheels. 

Is the v36 slave cylinder really this weak or have I just had bad luck? My take off's aren't that abusive. Just the odd spirited take off I'd expect any performance car to be capable of on occasions.

The other problem is the shudder (feels like the old school axle tramp on a live axle car) I get occasionally on minor wheel spin with traction turned off. It doesn't always happen, and it can often happen on minor wheel spin on take off. I've had it in the wet multiple times as well. I've got some decent high performance tyres (pilot sport 4S) but this also happened on the re050a when they were rat sh!t grip near the end of their life. Could this be bush wear or something? I've got stick suspension except I have whiteline adjustable sway bars in it (although it did with the stock sway bars).

Edited by Pete_Repeat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471744-two-faults-with-my-v36/
Share on other sites
sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

The clutch master and slave shouldn't care if you are at full throttle or at 1/10 throttle, it only has to release the clutch.  just taking a wild guess here but perhaps the twisting of the engine/transmission under a hard launch is causing the issue, have you had the flexible hose changed?  Otherwise, it could be a pressure plate or clutch fork issue.

As for the tramp/shudder, I would check rear suspension bushes.  Not sure about the V36, but the diff mounting bushes went bad after a while on the V35, so check these too.

I don't actually have a V36, so just giving some general suggestions.

  • Like 1
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, sonicii said:

The clutch master and slave shouldn't care if you are at full throttle or at 1/10 throttle, it only has to release the clutch.  just taking a wild guess here but perhaps the twisting of the engine/transmission under a hard launch is causing the issue, have you had the flexible hose changed?  Otherwise, it could be a pressure plate or clutch fork issue.

As for the tramp/shudder, I would check rear suspension bushes.  Not sure about the V36, but the diff mounting bushes went bad after a while on the V35, so check these too.

I don't actually have a V36, so just giving some general suggestions.

I hear you about the clutch. But it feels just like the first time where replacing the slave cylinder seemed to fix it for some time now. No problems with the original clutch plate then, just that I think they couldn't get the slave cylinder without the clutch plate included supposedly.... 

Flexible hose? Is that between the master and slave?

So diff bushes hey. I'll have a look at them. It does feel a little like it's something hitting the body so this makes sense. I recently got an alignment done and asked them to look at bushes but they wouldn't have checked the diff ones for an alignment 

Edited by Pete_Repeat
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

That type of behaviour is typical of factory clutches from many manufacturers.

Call a decent clutch place and discuss with them.

Oh right. I must have got lucky until now.. 

Might need to nurse this clutch for a bit until I feel I've warn it enough to justify getting rid of it or the slave gets worse, as I'm  not keen to replace an almost new clutch just yet.. I've changed clutches before but I'd likely pay someone next time and that won't come cheap I'm sure.

  • 4 months later...
Mclarenmercman Enthusiast

Mclarenmercman

Posted
Posted

It's the CSC. When it heats up it fails. I've had my clutch to the floor on a couple of occasions and luckily after it cools down it pops back up. There are upgrades available im sure through CZP or an elimination kit through Z1 motorsports.

Just remember when you replace it, you will "need" to buy a new Master Cylidner and replace it with it.

You will need to upgrade it or eliminate it.

 

Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
22 minutes ago, Mclarenmercman said:

It's the CSC. When it heats up it fails. I've had my clutch to the floor on a couple of occasions and luckily after it cools down it pops back up. There are upgrades available im sure through CZP or an elimination kit through Z1 motorsports.

Just remember when you replace it, you will "need" to buy a new Master Cylidner and replace it with it.

You will need to upgrade it or eliminate it.

 

Thanks for the reassuring. 

I'll look into them when it gets worse again, or I need a clutch change.. Clutch has probably only done 20k so far I think, so hard to pull it out just yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...