Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Peeps,

just thought to post this up, even if it comes in handy one day for someone with the same fault. As we know SAU is a great community for anything Skyline related

I wont go into full detail, just a basic overview - I recently completed mods to my R33 and got the vehicle tuned. After a long 2 1/2 years in prep and paint and taking the vehicle off the road. I had to remove all mods for RWC - the last 2 days I removed exhaust side and Intake side basically everything to change back to stock.

After fitting everything up and double checking to ensure I had covered all bases, checked earth connections, sensor plugs. Was time to fit the stock ECU and turn the key.

On the initial first cranking it did not start within 5 or so seconds, tried again, nothing at all. Was safe to assume something isn't working. After I turned the key to the off position I noticed a relay located next to the ECU kept clicking. ECCS relay - I thought it may have had something to do with the AFM wiring so I double checked it, only because one mod is the upgraded AFM - then tested the AFM wiring with Multi meter seems to have correct readings. And when I unplugged the AFM the ECCS relay stopped clicking. 

Also because I had changed to a S1 inlet manifold - I thought to also swap out the TPS with my S2 item. I then turned the key to on but not start and the ECCS was still clicking when the key was turned off. At this stage, I ran a quick ECU fault code diagnostic check - results were code 55 - no faults recorded. I installed the Apexi PFC back into the vehicle and got Co-Pilot running to set the TPS to the correct setting. And also check the sensor readings - everything seemed to be correct, except the TPS which was on 9.

Last thing was to open the Stock ECU housing - seen as it was sitting for 7 years to inspect inside for potential corrosion. And there it was as clear as day. Capacitor corroded. Also ran a quick test with the multimeter and found the number 2 was showing zero reading and all others were in the 460 to 470 range. Even though number 1 shows a reading but also corrosion I would be replacing this as well.

After finding this - i uploaded a base map back into the Apexi and car fired up straight away. Its kind of constipated going from 360kw back to stock ;)

IMG_2228.thumb.JPG.dba0e11860f3e06962f854b999606e61.JPG

IMG_2229.thumb.JPG.c0a8f41ca77bcbf5add99ef977ecd3b6.JPG

IMG_2230.JPG.ab932e0e02ee43068a014af50de6ab97.JPG

IMG_2231.JPG.69511c0330b8e8fda43752dee62cc709.JPG

IMG_2232.JPG.f49bd82939a10e00f4dd21178cd9252a.JPG

If it helps just one person in the future then its all well worth the very small effort.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...