Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I've been offered an RB20 manual gearbox and I realise that's the same box as the R34 non-turbos had. I have done a plus T but it's still only running modest power so I'm OK with putting the smaller box in. The one thing I'm struggling to really find is whether the R34 NA auto box has a speedo sender that will plug into the RB20 manual? Does it make a difference which Skyline the box came from - like if it was an R32? Nissan EPC doesn't even seem to list a speed sensor for the R34 non-turbo but it does for the 300zx NA auto which is the same box. I can't find any pictures showing where it is on the autobox either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472344-rb20-manual-box-into-r34-auto/
Share on other sites

I wouldn't do it. The RB20DET box is reasonably strong, but nowhere near strong enough to handle the torque of a 25DET.  I killed an RB20 manual box with just modest power on an RB20, around 190 rwkW.  Not thrashed, just wore out the input shaft bearing.  Too much torque, and over a not very long time.

The other thing is that the speedo senders are almost certainly different.  You may just be lucky and the NA R34 electronic sender will fit the RB20 box.  Maybe.  The boxes might be the same, but the speedo sender/cable drive part of it might be different.  I put an RB25DE manual into my R32 after I killed the original 20DET box and it accepted the R32 cable drive.  Maybe just maybe the R33&34 NA manual boxes are all cable drive (although I can't imagine why they would be).

Thanks for the reply. I'm not too worried about the power capability of the box at the moment. If I go ahead then I'll be building it up on a spare RB25DE NEO I've got in the garage. If all goes well I'll transplant the lot and attach all the +t mods I've done on the current engine. So worst case scenario is that it doesn't last long but having done all the hard work on pedals, clutch etc. I'll just be forced to buy an R33 box but then it's just a straight (ish) swap.

Also I'm supposing that a few have done +T on their R34 NA manuals and just kept using the W71C gearbox already in there?

What I need to do is start buying all the bits I need and just not sure if a speed sender will be one of those things. I think you're right about it's gonna be different but I'm just not clear on what's in the auto box already and whether it will slot in to replace whatever the RB20 box has. So if anyone knows that would be great.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...