Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im currently with HBF on my GTSt and they are really good (and more importantly, cheap), got a quote for a GTR insured for $40000 is only around the $2G mark.

Anyhow, thats not the problem, because i imported my car it requires an evaluation done by a guy the insurance company recommended, i explained to this guy how the car was an N1 and how limited numbers were made blah blah... anyhow he reckons $30G to maybe $35G?

Reckons once i get it registered it may go up to $38 depending what i do to it. The exhaust system alone is worth probably up near $6G! Anyhow enough whinging, anyone had any experience with this and know how to get the evaluation amount higher? Theres no point insuring it for $40-45 if i total it or it gets stolen and the company turns around and says... ah we only evaluated that car at $30G.

You serious? Cause the plan is to fit a Power FC. It doesn't matter much as i'll be over east in a couple of months and HBF wont insure you over there so will have to change policies. I sent a quote to Just Cars telling them the deal, see what they offer regarding insurance

Hey, well it hasn't gotten to HBF yet, still waiting to get the car finished, may have issues with the modifications. Just got a quote from just cars, they're actually cheaper, $1700 to insure for $40000. I'd probably up that amount to say $55000 if they're going to include the mods. ANyhow the excess is the thing. Standard: $300 Under 25: $300, Policy excess: $1000, mags: $700, Mods: $400, Theft: $1000. Means if my rims and tyres were stolen (value $5000 max), then i'm up for $3700 in excesses plus take a hit for my NCB.. i might give them a call and get some more info

hahaha HBF dont have a company they recommend as they cant do that cos they arent affiliated with any car valuers.. so whoever you were talking to has sent you on a goose chase.. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE AS A COMPANY... personal recommendations on the other hand are fair enuff.

go to somewhere that imports them and get a valuation from them, like C-red or Extreme Machines or Autoworx etc.

get them to do a full value.. you will find your premium wont go up by much at all for the higher sum insured..

also be very careful when dodging insurance in parents names etc. or anything along those lines.. had a few dodgies already and you gotta be careful when claiming

better not to dodge at all.

anyways go get a valuation from someone WHO KNOWS WHAT THESE CARS ARE WORTH PARTICULARLY A GTR N1

how did you get ones of these anyways.. good catch

Hey Riaz,

Yeah ive decided to give HBF the arse, they recommended a bloke to do the evaluation, he didn't really have an idea even when i explained about it being a limited edition version of the GTR ($30-35G).

As for dodging them up the whole thing is legit. I have a 60%NCB and its all in my name, when i first was after an import a few years back the insurance place said to get my own bonus up as they said that those cars (skylines, zx's etc) were flagged and the accidents investigated.

As for getting the N1, was browsing the japanese auctions for about 4 months looking for a grade 4 or better GTR V-spec in black with a few "compliance friendly" mods when an N1 popped up, few phone calls and i put the bid in but didn't expect to get it, in the end got it for less than some of the standard v-specs i'd been bidding on. Whats better is it turns up with a huge stainless turbo back exhaust, stainless manifold, HID lights and a few other goodies that weren't on the auction sheet, made getting it complied more tricky though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...