Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't find the Autronic that great.. but probably due to the support over here.

No one could get it to run with the GTR..

Here is an autronic running on a GTR... 391rwkw if i remember correctly? It was run in the Dutton Rally full 'o' stickers.

gallery_-_ourcustomers_-_slideshow12.jpg

gallery_-_ourcustomers_-_slideshow11.jpg

I had a look at some of the things they were doing with the ECU, and was pretty impressed. There is a switch in the cabin to turn on data logging, it monitors pretty much every possible part of the engines operation, has some sort of real time tune(??) and much more importantly, makes funky looking graphs to impress slack jawed yokels like me.

Yeah, its a track car so I guess its tuned for reliability?

Beats me, I'd like 390rwkw (which is especailly impressive when I have a FWD car)

Off topic for a second ... Have you heard of a link computer to suit the E5B6 computer as found in the jap-spec (and all over NZ) E5T from the ~1987 Mazda Familia GTX?

And off topic again ... Anyone know of any advantages of the HKS Fcon V over the PowerFC?

It seems that there is only one (1???) tuner in the whole of australia for the HKS Fcon V which on paper seems to have no advantages over the PowerFC, of which there are tuners on every street corner?

Great if you have Manual, but what if you have an Auto??

Anyone had experience with the TSI?

i have....very simple theory that it is based on however needs more R&D...little bugs exist in it...hence last time i heard there steering away from motorvehicles and turning to bikes :headspin:

hi guys, jus wondering wat would b a good computer 2 buy for my skyline r33 gtst? i dont have any knowledge on computers but hav mates that do but not on skylines. any help would b appreciated

it really comes down to budget....power fc are excellent value if u manage to skip customs through the internet orders.....tuning wise there are probably three ppl in sydney that i would use to tune this ie. CRD (~$800) via laptop , Unigroup via handcontroller (~$450), Hitman via laptop ($300 flat rate)

it comes down to what do u expect out of car or intend to do with it.....if u are going for more than 300rwkw than i would think long and hard bout the choice of comp as an understanding needs to established between u and the tuner....its always nice as the computer is only as good as the tuner :D

i personally run a Haltech on my rb25 which runs as a plug-in and is done by JEM over at moorebank....adam there does also EMS, MICROTECH, TSI, MOTEC....HITMAN actually works there also from under the same roof so pretty much whatever computer ur running something can be done about it....however its only a RWD dyno hence GTR ownrs are at a disadvantage........ :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...