Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm having troubles starting my car.

I've been told that because the Bosch 044 doesn't have a fuel return catch valve, fuel drains from the fuel rail back into the tank, and that's why I have to crank my car over 2-3 times before it'll start...

It's been suggested to me that I turn ignition on for 5 seconds, let the pump prime, then turn the car off again, then on again for another 5 seconds, and then crank it. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to help the situation.

Does your car do this? How do you get around the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47315-who-has-a-bosch-044-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

the 044 comes with a non return vavle, well mine did - just need a banjo fitting to go over it which you should be able to get from a speed shop.

Having said that, I know a guy who has a 044 and they (workshop) removed the non return valve when it was fitted, as its easier to get a hose tail connector - he hasnt had any problems that I know of, as I specifically asked if he had problems with it being removed.

sorry if thats not much help

Firstly, I don't know all the technicals and only remember the basics.. since going to the bosch 044 we initially had a similar problem, and in some case the car would not start for some time.

So here's what we did..

1) Checked the battery and found we had a shitty 280cc (good for suzuki swifts) replaced this with a maintenance free ~450cc battery [this helped a great deal]

2) Check that your connector thingo's to the bosch pump are securely attached, we ended up soldering them on. [this definately help fuel pressure]

3) An option we were told to try if we wanted to was add a relay.. [we have not bothered trying this yet, coz all is sweet now]

Overall, our problem is pretty much fixed, initally it was similar to you Merli, but now it's all sweet. Basically you need to prime the Bosch Pump, if it doesn't start "normally" on the first try, switch it off, turn it to ignition and let the pump prime for about 5seconds then it should start, otherwise do it one more time. I rarely have to do it more than twice.

thanks for the replies so far guys...

meshmesh, did you run a constant 12V straight from the battery to the pump, or did you use the original wiring which has a voltage stepper? I've got mine wired in with the standard wiring, as I was told that unless there's a problem with the standard wiring, it's best to use it as the voltage stepper helps prolong the life of the pump and adds reliability :confused:

I'm using an Optima Yellow Top, so there's no problem with the battery...

The other thing is, I can't hear the pump priming when I turn it to IGN... This is meant to be a very loud pump right? I can't hear it zzzzzzzzzz'ing whilst it primes itself like the HKS pump did in my old car...

Oh, and the report of the GT-SS is coming after it's been fully run-in and tuned :) So far, they're spooling at about 3500rpm but that's with the camshafts not dialed in at all... Cam gears are still on 0 setting. Should be able to bring boost on a little earlier :rofl:

thanks for the replies so far guys...

meshmesh, did you run a constant 12V straight from the battery to the pump, or did you use the original wiring which has a voltage stepper? I've got mine wired in with the standard wiring, as I was told that unless there's a problem with the standard wiring, it's best to use it as the voltage stepper helps prolong the life of the pump and adds reliability :confused:

The other thing is, I can't hear the pump priming when I turn it to IGN... This is meant to be a very loud pump right? I can't hear it zzzzzzzzzz'ing whilst it primes itself like the HKS pump did in my old car...

ok, 1, the bosch pumps, noisy as. The walbro are quieter, and i can still hear mine whining.

2, you need to run more power to the pump, the stock wiring dont get what the pump needs. I think once you do that you'll be fine.

But i still let mine prime for a few secs before starting.

Different pump, but aftermarket none the less

Check the wiring possibly... from what I have heard the factory wiring doesnt quite cut the mustard with one of these pumps (a few tuners have also told me horror stories of stock wiring burning out and catching on fire when used for such a large pump).

I've never had a starting problem with my 044 even thought I thought I might due to the removal of the valve. I am concerned about my wiring burning out though. Where does it tend to burn through? In the top of the fuel tank cap? I should check it when the pump gets hot. It's quiet until it gets warm. On a long highway ride in the middle of summer I can hear it over the engine, and it's embarrassingly loud when I pull into a servo. But in winter it's almost silent, unless I do a lot of driving in which case it's somewhere between silent and embarrassingly loud.

Stick ya head in the boot and get someone to crank the car to ign so you can really try and hear the pump. If you cant hear it priming when its on IGN then there must be a problem with the way its installed or wired up.

My 550hp walbro is fairly quiet and you can hear it prime/building rail pressure for a few seconds before i crank it on. But i am thinking of putting a 044 inline with a surge tank incase teh walbro cant hack the new power/fuel requirements.

I also dont think it is wise to run a constant 12v power supply to the fuel pump. You really want the pump to lose power when the IGN not on. Ie in the event of an accident the pump wont continue to pump fuel all over the place.

My 20 cents worth....

The 044 is designed to work at 13.8 volts all the time. So feeding it 6 volts doesn't sound like a particularly good idea to me. So I always run a relay, switched by the standard wiring and with power supply wiring back to the battery. I use a 30 amp fuse at the battery to make sure there are no short circuits. I have never had a problem with priming but I always run a non return valve if the pump is mounted in the tank. If it has a surge tank, then a non return valve isn't really necessary.

Hope that helps :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...