Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got one in SA that's in excellent condition. It has been crack tested & linished, and has the oil plugs replaced with grub screws. It also has an extended oil drive collar fitted. It is from a series 2 R33 GTST, so RB25DET. I don't know if the RB25 & RB25DET cranks are the same or not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473177-rb25-crankshaft/#findComment-7865872
Share on other sites

It has been machined, and I have an almost new set of big end & main bearings that can go with it. I'll need to take a closeup of the keyway, will try & do that tomorrow. The only reason we no longer need the crank is because we changed to an RB25/30.20170521_131014.thumb.jpg.d477fa2893aa03f821b5b430bf58c36c.jpg20170521_131001.thumb.jpg.84ab532779706c6c5ecd5f02587a3bfd.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473177-rb25-crankshaft/#findComment-7865987
Share on other sites

Long version of the story:

It's been to the crankshaft machinist twice. The first time it was crack tested, tested for straightness, had the oil pump collar fitted, the plugs were drilled & tapped for grubscrews, and it was linished. (I was thinking machined, but pretty sure I was wrong - more on this later). The cranksahft guy also supplied new bearings (ACL Race), I can't find the receipt for this job. This was in early 2016, and was as part of a full motor rebuild - block & head machined, forged pistons etc. The issue that prompted the rebuild was cracked ringlands.

We put the motor back together, and ran it for about 6 months. Then the turbo crapped itself, and the diagnosis was possible lack of lubrication. The turbo went back to be re-done, and at the same time we bought an extended baffled sump. While the sump was off we pulled the crank out, and because the thought was that oil supply was an issue, took it back to the machine shop to be checked. There was no crank damage, but a couple of the bearings showed some wear. At this stage the crank was checked & linished, and we bought another set of bearings. I do have this receipt - it was Sep 16, and the bearings we bought were 6B1216-STD & 7M1203-STD - so standard size. I can't remember the brand, but pretty sure we couldn't get ACL Race so these were an alternative. The receipt only has the part numbers as above.

We put the bottom end back together with the extended sump, fitted the new turbo, and took it to be dynoed. Results were not what they should be, so we changed a few things, checked valve timing etc, and took it back to the dyno. Still not what it should have been, so we pulled the head and found scratches in several bores - looked like bits of the turbine had gone throught it. At about the same time someone advertised a New Old Stock RB30 bottom end - had never been started, so we bought that and built an RB25/30.

The crankshaft & bearings have done 2 dyno sessions since the linish. Bearings are all still mated to the journals they were on, and I'd re-use them. If you are serious I'm sure the machinist would have a quick look and give you his opinion - he is an old school machine shop who only does crankshafts - business name is Crankshaft Grinding Specialist P/L.

Journal sizes are 48mm for rods, and 55mm for mains - all within around .03mm by my vernier. Pics of the hournals are at Journal pics

Edited by GeeDog
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473177-rb25-crankshaft/#findComment-7866116
Share on other sites

On 27/01/2018 at 3:49 PM, GeeDog said:

I'll sell it for $450 plus postage - and to put that into perspective it cost me $330 just to supply & fit the extended oil pump collar onto the RB30 crank.

 

Hey mate thanks for taking the time to reply, i have found a couple of cranks local and will check those out first.

If they are no good ill get in touch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473177-rb25-crankshaft/#findComment-7866737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...