Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lmao what'd you honestly expect..

The bolts are shit, but not impossible with the right tools. Take a break and come back with a clear head. I'd suggest a 1/4" drive extension and uni to get through the runners.

Alternatively, throttle body off and get under there with a ratchet spanner.

Hey jordy thanks for ur advice !
I have watched every video I could find and read everything I could..
I have removed the throttle body and tried to eliminate everything I can get to, but I don't think anything has ever been done to my car everything is really brittle. I've tried a uni joint, but that's too long to get right under the bolt and the ratchet spanner fits but there's no room to turn to crack it open.
I've left it and come back for 2 days and tried from every angle and now I'm really pissed off I have to catch the train to work instead of enjoying my lovely car!
Its so frustrating if it wasn't for those 2 bolts I would have fixed my car by now!
Isn't there someone who wants to be a hero and show me how its done??
I don't have the money for a tow to a mechanic and anyway I actually enjoy working on my own car...it's just the most shittiest spot ever to put bolts!!
Why????

25 minutes ago, juicey33 said:
5 hours ago, NEO25T said:
I just put a manifold together on the car, i used a 3/8 ratchet with the smallest extension.
You should be able to see the front one so just take note of the position of the ratchet under the manifold and replicate on the other 2.

Can u come and help me then ?

I would but im in Sydney lol

I took a different approach. (not saying mine is better, because it looks like other ways could be more efficient)

I removed the throttle body and fuel rail, then attacked all bolts underneath with a ratchet spanner. I didn't remove fuel filter or anything on the strut side of the manifold.

If I can do it with my dough boy hands I'm sure you can do it :)

You said you tried with a ratchet spanner and couldn't move it? Did you get the TB and fuel rail out of the way? Show us a couple pics so we can see how you're attacking it.

  • Like 1
I took a different approach. (not saying mine is better, because it looks like other ways could be more efficient)
I removed the throttle body and fuel rail, then attacked all bolts underneath with a ratchet spanner. I didn't remove fuel filter or anything on the strut side of the manifold.
If I can do it with my dough boy hands I'm sure you can do it [emoji4]
You said you tried with a ratchet spanner and couldn't move it? Did you get the TB and fuel rail out of the way? Show us a couple pics so we can see how you're attacking it.
U in Perth?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...