Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Someones having a worse day then me. :P Rule of thumb figures are:

- $1500 for a manifold,

- $3000 for a turbo

- $800 wastegate

- $800 injectors

- $2500 ECU installed and tuned

- $1500 intercooler installed

- $1500 exhaust installed

- $1500 clutch and flywheel

Then youll have a car with plenty of power but lacks the niceties such as:

- $1200 cams installed

- $2500 suspension

- $500 brake pads and fluid

It aint cheap.... for more detail then the above, then thee SEARCH button is our friend.

Thats rough figures, for new bits at retail...shop around you can get cheaper new/2nd hand and different brands

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanx heaps ROY....

ohh i aint saying i got a high performance car...im saying i want 2 build my car into 1...read properly an stop just jumping on ppl..

I see you've got no comeback about not being able to write English properly :cheers:

yeah well i know how 2 drive decent enough...an all i want 2 do is get the right turbo setup from the strat so i dont just have 2 get another 1 later....i aint going to run it 2 its full potential just yet either so dont worry.....

all i wanted to know is how much a minifold would be nd roy answered that 2 me...does anyone know anywere that sells manifolds 2 suit an external wastegate setup..i kant find any... thanx anyone who can tell me

Its cool to dream. :)

Mods take time and lots of money.

As soon as he realises how much he is really up for he may be happy with just 200rwkw or so..

As soon as you start hitting 250rwkw you have to be prepared should a motor to let go. There's another 6.5K.

Before you know it you've spent as much on the car as what its worth.

Do it in stages..

Exhaust, FMIC, bigger fuel pump, ECU then look at the suspension turbo manifold and injectors.

Go for a ride in benms car before you start thinking about needing a bigger turbo straight up. A well sorted std turbo R33 can be made to boogie :)

Like Joel said, its nota bad idea to get the basics out of the way (in order) like exhaust, filter, intercooler, cam gears, ECU, clutch...then by the time you are ready for a turbo you will have all the support systems with the exception of fuel pump and injectors which are dependent on how big you go.

Go for a ride in benms car before you start thinking about needing a bigger turbo straight up. A well sorted std turbo R33 can be made to boogie

I wouldnt call it dreaming, its planning ahead...i wish i had followed a more logical path to modifying my car...woudl have saved a lot of money and probably have twice the power...but its wise to have an idea of what it al costs before you start.

i have a 3" turbo back exaust, hks pod filter with cai, boost controller, tein ajustable supension.....an i will admit damn i was strugling 2 get traction already b4 i blew the turbo up...but since i have 2 replace i want 2 replace it with sumthing that has lots of potentioal..long long long term i want 300kw.....thats it..if i wanted more i would do a RB26 transplant instead..

ohh yeah ill tell be honest..i got offered a 500Hp garrett turbo that need an external wastegate for $400 brand spanking new neva been used an still in the box.. just want 2 see if i kan afford 2 do the whole setup properly...thats y i just need 2 know but modding the manifold or gettin a second hand stainless steel one 2 suit...

To get 300rwkw you will need an engine build with forged pistons.

Anything over 350rwkw and you will need a set of forged rods.

Simply doing an RB26 transplant isn't really worthwhile.

You are better off spending the $$ on a good set of forged rods.

Not many people go down this road as it is serious $$.

sorry joel possted at the same time as you...yeah i dont want 2 go over 300kw....would be 2 much for me...and i will only be running it under safe limits..like 250kw max untill i get more $$ to get forgies..

Even with 250rwkw be prepared to shell out for a rebuild should the thing pop.

If you want it to be reliable you will need to drop the compression ratio with a thicker head gasket, fuel pump, injectors, exhaust, fmic and an ecu.

Then on top of that all the labour to fit the headgasket, injectors and tuning of the ecu.

This will blow out to a lot more than you realise.

How much are you planning to spend honestly.

How much do you think you can afford?

not alot..as u kan c im only 17 an work part time when im not at skool....got ony bout $1600 to spend to get this turbo prob fixed at the moment...not much at all

What mods are already done?

So your std turbo is stuffed?

I would scour the forums for a cheap second hand RB25 turbo.

Spend $150 or so for a dyno run to check the af's.

If it is leaning out spend the rest on a decent fuel pump.

If you have already got the fuel pump sorted, spend the $$ on a PowerFC then save up for a little to get it tuned. Tuning is generally around $400-$600.

That will give you a big power increase depending on mods. :rofl:

joel thanx 4 your help mate...i just really wanted 2 get a good turbo this time...i only had the last 1 on 10psi an it kicked the bucket...but i will take your advise as that is what i posted this thread 4..to get advice

like i said b4 i have a 3" turbo back exaust, boost controler (turbosmart in cabin 1), really good HKS pod filter in a cold air intake box...

so you think just replace my turbo with another stock 1 ay....an my car is running really rich at the moment (fair bit of rich fuel smoke when i get up it)

ohh yeah ill tell be honest..i got offered a 500Hp garrett turbo that need an external wastegate for $400 brand spanking new neva been used an still in the box.. just want 2 see if i kan afford 2 do the whole setup properly...thats y i just need 2 know but modding the manifold or gettin a second hand stainless steel one 2 suit...

brand new 500hp turbo for $400??

What truck did it fall off?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...