Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey again.

So I currently have a standard RB30 fan and it is crazy loud. I've heard that the design of the RB25 fan is superior and runs a lot quieter.

I am just wondering if the RB25 fan and fan clutch will bolt right up and fit without modification at all?

Edited by Lumia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473764-rb25-fan-clutch-fan-in-a-rb30/
Share on other sites

It should.  The thing that matters is the 4 bolt holes on the water pump and the water pump on the RB30 is Nissan OEM the same as the RB20s & 25s.  You could check for yourself by posting up the dimensions of your RB30 bolt PCD and one of us could post up the dims from a 20/25 pump/hub.   I have one spare in the shed, for example.

But caution is warranted.  Your noise could just be because the clutch has seized and makes more noise than it should because the fan is locked on.  Simple seizure is not the only possible failure.  They can over-react to temperature too, locking up cooler than they should, leading to more noise.  My RB25's fan clutch is like that.  Sounds like a Navara or Patrol as soon as the weather gets hot, whereas my old RB20 clutch was fine (until it seized up and died altogether).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...